LIGHTNING UK!

Clearly it's not reading *all* dvd's or you wouldn't be having the problem you're having! Try cleaning the drive because basically, it can't initialise the disc properly. Until it does/can, no software can do anything with it. Do you only have the one spindle of discs? What were they exactly? DVD-R or DVD+R? Have you also tried looking for a firmware update for the drive? http://www.firmwarehq.com/search.php?chk=&keywords=20a1

I think you mean here donta http://www.firmwarehq.com/Samsung/TS-U633A/files.html

Turn your caps lock off and copy + paste everything in the log window.

So let me get this straight, you clicked the big 'Write' button and now you're saying the user couldn't possibly anticipate ImgBurn would be doing anything to the disc? No offence but, yeah ok! Setting the layer break position is nothing to do with writing data to it. It's perfectly acceptable for a disc to be empty and have a modified layer break. In Build mode, the layer break info has to be figured out so the file system etc can be put together. In Write mode that simply doesn't apply. As Build mode only piggybacks Write mode when the 'Output' is set to 'Device', the LB stuff (where changes to the disc happen) is still being run, just it already has the info and so doesn't need to prompt a second time. Either way, the command sent to the drive to manipulate the physical layer break is still sent at exactly the same time. With some drives, the LB isn't actually moved properly until a write command is sent - in which case you can just eject the disc / reinsert it and it'll look like it's brand new. Now you know how it all works I trust you won't have any more issues with it.

I agree. You could also try cleaning your existing one... but basically, Matshita drives are sh**.

Try AHCI mode as mentioned earlier. Try something other than a Pioneer drive on your sata ports Try the ports that are laying down (although they're on the same controller so I doubt it'll do anything). If it still doesn't work, short of buying a new motherboard that doesn't use the AMD chipset, you'll just have to use an alternative method of plugging your optical drive(s) in. i.e. get that silicon image pci card I mentioned (something with a 3112/3512/3114 chipset - they're about

If 'tm20dec.ax' is crashing then I suggest you remove it, it's nothing to do with ImgBurn. run the following from a command prompt: regsvr32 /u c:\windows\system32\tm20dec.ax and if that fails, search your hdd for the tm20dec.ax file and replace 'c:\windows\system32' with the appropriate path.

You don't have to burn to BD-R, just use a BD-RE or make an image and mount it in a virtual drive program like 'Virtual CloneDrive'.... at least until you get your process fine tuned.

Probably a bad antivirus / spyware program that's blocking its execution due to me using UPX to compress the exe. You can either figure out which of your programs is causing the issue (without warning you!) and fix/remove it or you can decompress the program's exe. Personally I'd go for the first option because it would annoy the hell out of me if a program ever did that on my machine without telling me what it was doing.

No, the default has always been SAO. A good few versions ago, ImgBurn used to fall back to TAO if SAO failed... now it doesn't (it was just getting too messy). btw, the write parameters aren't something YOU set/send, it's an internal command that ImgBurn sends to the drive. The 'Write Type' setting just manipulates one little bit of those parameters (the one that makes it use either SAO or TAO).

The LB box pops up as ImgBurn is about to set the layer break. The layer break has nothing to do with the LeadIn. The setting of the LB position is its own unique command. The LeadIn gets written by the drive once the first 'Write' command has been received. So all in all, there is no 'bug' here, just user error I'm afraid.

Are you sure the blocks need removing? Did you understand what I meant by them being on their side (it's 2 ports stacked on top of eachother) ? You plug the cables in from the front/back of the board rather than the top. I can't imagine why Gigabyte would have actually put plugs in the 4 sockets unless they're not physically connected on the board or something.

Your drive is just overspeeding a little, nothing to worry about.

What are you trying to 'remove' on the number 2 set of ports? They're just laying flat so the cables aren't in the way of long graphics cards etc. So basically, the cables go in horizontally (parallel to the board) rather than vertically (90 degrees to the board). Is it worth you trying AHCI mode in the BIOS? Failing that, you might have to get yourself a little Silicon Image PCI card and run the drive off that - assuming it's a general issue with that drive on your chipset. It's a shame you didn't get a totally different drive (by Optiarc / Samsung or whoever) to see if they worked ok.

You're better off taking a look at the drive forums at cdfreaks for that kind of advice. That said, I'm sure they're much the same. Personally I'd just go for the latest and greatest model - check the LG website and then cdfreaks to make sure they're not all saying that model is rubbish.

It must be a device/filter driver issue because it doesn't happen on my Vista install. Explorer opens up instantly and even when I double click on the drive ImgBurn is in the process of writing to, it just brings up a box saying the drive is currently in use - which is exactly what I'd expect to happen. Here's another test for you... start burning something (a DVD+RW is fine) and then open a 2nd instance of ImgBurn. Do you get an 'access denied' message in the log window for the drive you're burning to in the other instance of ImgBurn? (or does that just make everything hang too?!)

Yup.

Your drive is ancient by the looks of it and probably doesn't support the 'SAO' write type. Is that the only drive you have? Try changing the 'Write Type' to 'TAO' in the settings if it is. That's the legacy format and should work ok.

Open the log file (in Notepad or whatever) and select the relevant part with the mouse. Just copy + paste that bit. To be honest, it really doesn't matter if you send me more, I'll just figure it out myself. The main thing is to get me the log!

If you've been testing discs from 2 different spindles, I doubt they're the cause. Does it say where they were made? India, Singapore etc?

Well this is where you really need to try the drive in another pc... or try under a totally new/different OS installation (hence my linux suggestion). Of course you might just find it's not worth your time to keep messing around and so opt to buy a new drive. Fingers crossed the new one will not suffer the same issue.

I've already deleted this thread once! Yes of course buying a new drive will fix most issues but it's not something you can ever suggest outright... especially when you don't know all the facts.

It's a Windows application and DMG/Rock Ridge etc simply don't apply. You mean redbook then surely, not rainbow book? If you do mean rainbow, it's not one I've even heard of so why would I support it? That said, isn't it the content of the disc that fits with those standards? There's nothing I can change at burn time to make it comply with one or the other, it just comes down to what you're actually burning.

No No What?

Yes. Did you even bother to read the posts above? There is nothing wrong with your burn so I suggest you look elsewhere... and by that I don't just mean to forget about it being an ImgBurn issue (because it's not), I mean to look on another forum - one that's actually related to XBOX360.