LIGHTNING UK!

Keep the log window open and look in it! ImgBurn tells you about such problems, it's up to you to act on them. It's probably just a case of selecting the appropriate file system. If you have MEGA long file names you'll need to break the specs and change some of the 'Restrictions' to allow the use of longer names. On what kind of device are you seeing the shorter names? A PC? A standalone player? Something else?

Because ImgBurn doesn't support RAW mode writing and it's just not needed in day to day 'legal' copying/burning.

No, the read errors on the disc when reading with other drives proves it's not a decent burn. The verify only shows that the drive you verify in can read it at that moment in time. See if you can get hold of some CD's using Taiyo Yuden dye. In my experience they're far better than anything else. I stopped using Verbatim (unless they're TY ones!) a long time ago because of problems like this - i.e. them not reading back very well. I've done a lot of tweaking since starting to deal with this thread so at least something good has come out of it even if at the end of the day you just end up binning that disc!

You have 2 choices really.... 1. Buy a new spindle of discs and hope that they work in your existing drive. 2. Buy a new drive (or have it replaced if it's under warranty) and hope that your existing spindle of discs work.

Keep burning until it works again. Speed it up to 8x. Clean your drive. They're just some of the things you can try, but at the end of the day, it's your drive that's throwing the hissy fit because it (or its firmware) has some problem with your media.

Everything with 'not blank' to the right of it tells me that it's not blank - at least according to your drive. Status: Incomplete Erasable: No Sessions: 2 Sectors: 322 Size: 659,456 bytes Time: 00:06:22 (MM:SS:FF) Supported Write Speeds: 8x, 12x, 16x, 24x TOC Information: Session 1... (LBA: 0 - 322) -> Track 01 (Mode 2, Form 1, LBA: 0 - 321) -> LeadOut (LBA: 322) ATIP Information: Start Time of LeadIn (MID): 97m26s66f Last Possible Start Time of LeadOut: 79m59s71f

That disc isn't blank.

It looks like you have a general communications problem there. Have you tried a new lead with your enclosure... or a different usb port? Maybe it's caused by a dodgy filter drive or other low level device driver that's been installed?

Unless you can find a different filter, no. It this just a windows 64bit issue, I can't remember? The next release of ImgBurn has a workaround for the problem.

It's all your drives fault. Well, that and you not reading the 'Supported Write Speeds' text in the disc information on the right.

Ah, I've looked into it a bit now... seems I need to use the new ITaskbarList3 COM interface. Looks like I need to get the Windows 7 SDK down so I can see how the 'TaskbarButtonCreated' message works

It's probably best if you actually try burning some DL files so you can see what I mean. There is no 'honouring' to be done. You're presented with a list of cells that can be aligned with the physical layer break position on the media and I would expect the one from dvdlab pro to be amongst those. It's down to you to pick the right one from the list.

These are the speeds your burner supports on the media you're using. Try burning at each of them. If none work, read this: http://forum.imgburn.com/index.php?showtopic=8000

I'm sure it will be one day but at the moment you're burning the CUE file in Write mode - which is for burning images - so it obviously wouldn't make sense for Write mode to write an image to an image... if you see what I mean?! ImgBurn would require a special mode for audio cd's that's something along the lines of Build mode (where you can output to a device or an image file).

Well the % complete is already put in what should be shown on the taskbar. If Windows 7 collapses the button down into something tiny where you can't see it then I don't know of any way around that.

The flag in the IFO isn't 100% the layer break flag, that's just what it's commonly known as. The flag can be set for other reasons so you can't really assume a cell with it set to off is the LB cell. The important thing is to make sure the physical layer break position is aligned nicely with the start of a cell (and vice versa) and that the cell has it's SPLIP ('Seamless Playback Linked in PCI' - the layer break one) flag turned off. ImgBurn presents you with the available options as to which cells are available to be used as the layer break cell. So 'it' wouldn't be adding a second LB, you would be - if that's what you chose to do. It's down to you to select the cell, be that the original one (if you know exactly where it was) or a new one. ImgBurn does then try to fixup the IFO's though - assuming you haven't told it not to of course!

This isn't a 360 support forum, it's for people having problems burning with ImgBurn. If you get an error trying to use the program, post a copy of the log (like it says to do in the pink bar at the top). Remember to Verify your burns and pay attention to the 'sticky' threads at the top of the forum too.

Brand names mean nothing, it's the dye that's important. A brand can change the dye they use every week if they want to!

Can I ask, what made you think you had to use build mode in the first place? When you start ImgBurn the top left huge button says 'Write image file to disc'... surely that's the most logical route to take when you already know you have an image and you want to burn it to disc? Please, I'm not trying to be funny here, I just want to understand how people's minds work so I can try and make things more obvious and add extra prompts when I detect them making common mistakes.

It's not possible to have it output to an image, no. You could always burn to a CDRW and then read it back.

Ok, I see the problem now. When ImgBurn scans the tracks it checks the end of them to see if they're readable. Depending on how a disc is burnt (SAO or TAO), you can end up with unreadable sectors at the end that aren't really part of the track but are referenced in the TOC anyway. This little check is being initiated due to your drive reporting that 'off by 2' value for the track size. Here we see ImgBurn trying to read the sectors that aren't part of the track according to the track info but are according to the TOC... (i.e. 329182 and 329183 as mentioned before) As you can see, the drive is unable to read sector 329182. ImgBurn then classes this sector (and any after this point but within the same track) as junk that it shouldn't read because they're probably not real ones. Internally I just call them 'EndGap' sectors and once the real data sectors have been read, ImgBurn creates empty sectors for all the EndGap ones. So it's reading up to sector 329181 from the disc and then dummy filling the remaining 2 with zeroes. Currently, these EndGap sectors are NOT part of the MD5 calculation - that explains why the MD5 doesn't match I guess - assuming of course that the last 2 sectors in your image file really are just all Zeroes. I'm going to assume that they are all zeroes (can't rely on what the drive reported when you said you could read the sector and yet the log shows the drive can't) and that's why the byte level verification passes. So the moral of the story is... trust the byte level stuff more than the MD5 value I'm going to add some more debug logging in now so it'll make these types of problems easier to justify.

If it's not just a duff batch of discs there must be a flaw in the firmware. Talk to LG and see what they say. Maybe they'll send you a new drive.

Matshita drives are rubbish to start with, by using anything but the best / most compatible media you're only asking for more trouble. http://forum.imgburn.com/index.php?showtopic=8000

Yes it works in Windows 7. When you say 'taskbar', do you mean 'sidebar' ? From what I've seen, the taskbar is slightly different in Windows 7 but it still shows 'buttons' for applications once they've been launched. I don't really have any plans to write a gadget for the sidebar.

That 'older version' didn't look for errors during the finalisation stage. In any case, the disc still isn't readable. Yes you should give the MKM-001-00 discs a try if you can source them from somewhere. Just make sure they're the ones made in Singapore.