volvofl10
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Everything posted by volvofl10
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FINALLY downloaded it after 8 hours of trying . dirty Basts have done it so you can only get it from thm as well and i thought Bill gates mob was bad !!
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Is it just me who cant download ITunes 7.5 from apple ? spent most of the day trying to get it for my daughter and her new nano ( which has to have v7.5 apparantly) and all i get i the "Thank you for downloading Itunes" message presume its there server thats screwed up due to about 20 million new Ipods being given as presents today . all i want to do is get some music onto the ipod for her to listen to
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Happy Birthday Alter < best steptoe voice mode ON > You dirty Old man <steptoe voice mode OFF>
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hmm 2.2.0.0 , 2.3.2.0.is less than 2 mb , whadya waiting for
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Id say both ink/dye and quality control go hand in hand If the ink/dye isnt applied correctly in manufacture it doesnt matter if its the best ink/dye in the world. it will still be a poor disc For that reason IMO Taiyo Yuden come out top every time . Ive only lost 7 -R's in over 800 discs. works out at less than 1% failure rate I would say burn 16x TY's ( TYG03) at 8x though. i stuck to TYGO2's discs. you MUST get Taiyos from a reputable source though, as mentioned, theres lots of fakes about
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Although they are TDK , TDK have used the CMC MAG dye , another example of leading brand companies using other peoples product in mabufacturing . Have a look HERE to see how many brands use the CMC ink/dye on +R media If your unsure what the ink/dye is, its the coloured layer you can see from the bottom side of the disc. Its this part that your writer ( burner) actually burns to create a series of 1's and 0's, the binary data This in turn is what your player reads and interprates into sound, so basically a low quality dye or ink will not get perfect burning and so cant be read later on after the disc is created. we have had cases of CMC ink/dye that wont read back straight after its been burned Vebratim and Taiyo yuden are probably the better manufacturers of ink/dye. In fact, verbatim actually use the Taiyo yuden dye on some of there +R media as well as the MCC dye ( MCC = Mitsubishi chemical company) , personally I'd go for the genuine Taiyo yuden as they DONT use any one elses dye/ink
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sounds like its your Sony player just dont like the discs your using. not every player likes every disc, or indeed every burner for that matter. this should chamge when you get some decent media There are DivX players our there , usually they play both DVD and DivX . are you in Europe ? as svp do a sample pack of media you can try before you buy a lot of discs
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most likely cause is the media your using CMC Mag . VERY low quality and consistency 21:19:39 Destination Media Type: DVD+R (Disc ID: CMC MAG-E01-00) (Speeds: 4x, 6x, 8x)
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are your verbatims made in Singapore or India ?
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PLEASE HELP!!! Cannot get DVD+R DL to burn
volvofl10 replied to AgKyle2010's topic in ImgBurn Support
prefferably Verbatims made in Singapore as opposed to made in India -
I havent ehard of Meritline doing any fakes, so I'd say there genuine taiyos . a slim ( and i mean VERY slim) chance is that you found a couple of duff discs in the spindle, but Taiyo failure rate is very low.Can you try one from the other end of the spindle/pack We usually tell people to burn the TYG03 media at 8x , even though they are rated 16x , 8x seems to be more reliable.
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LOL ................ take 3 Hail Marys for your cheek
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beware of the ones made in India, the quality of them is debatable compared with the Singapore ones. would suggest you stick to ones made in Singapore if you can get them .The Indian manufacturing process is done by a 3rd party and probably not quite up to the standards we have come to expect from verbatim for Dual Layer media we recommend; Verbatims with the MKM-001 dye/ink, made in Singapore ( NOT India). burn at 2.4x and set booktype to DVD-ROM
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patience my son, christmas isnt until next week
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where was your verbatims made ? (usually says on the packaging )
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next time please post the whole log, as theres other info in there that may help
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they are Genuine Taiyo yudens arn't they ? if your unsure, where did you buy them from
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DL burning problem. 100% then dead..., and I/O error.
volvofl10 replied to legacy's topic in ImgBurn Support
post a log file and the exact error message your getting please -
regarding the hitachi, its as Chewy said above, several poor reports about playing anything other than commercial bought discs. have you tried to play your disc on any other player ?, say a mates or family members player. Im trying to eliminate the hitachi player as the problem
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when you split a cell, do it several times in a few places around the mid point that LUk suggested , dont do just 1 split but do several . this will more than likely give you an acceptable layer break point then
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Trial and error is your answer if you start at the best media and work downwards you'll find the answer quicker than starting with crap media and working upwards the "Dye" or "Ink" is the purple/lilac coloured layer you can see when looking at the bottom of the disc. Your burner actually burns into this layer which in turn becomes the binary data your players read. you can check the burners manufacturers web site to see what brand media they say is compatible for a starting point. Just as importantly , you also need to find what media will work in your standalone players as well, as this can be a task within itself. example is, my 3 panasonic players wont play TDK or single layer Verbatims very well, but our cheep and cheerful 10$ special plays ANYTHING you throw in it... the recommendation is for single layer 4.7GB disc's use Taiyo Yuden , although not usually available from local stores these seem the most consistent for use amongst burners and players for dual layer 9GB disc's, use verbatim 2.4x with the MKM-001 ink/dye that are made in Singapore and stick to the 2.4x burning. also set booktype to DVD-ROM I read half of the link spinner posted and in all honestly , there talking shite ( no disrespect meant to spinner) . You cant decide if a disc is good because of its colour. the only way is to find a good brand that works on all your devices and stick with it. what works on your player may not work on mine and vice versa .listening to others experiences is a good way to rule half of the worlds medias out. we have a media test forum thats worth looking at Click HERE for drives and media forum you will pay more for good/decent media but its worth it in the long run. as for firmware , its worth keeping it up to date for the reason chewy explained above. the newer the firmware the better chance of being able to burn the latest type of media
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what happens on your sony and toshiba when you try and play the disc ?, what error message do they give you . whats the models of each dvd player your using ? a quick google shows your drive can handle the following formats. ive made Bold the main ones. basuically it will do both +R and -R as well as Dual layer +R discs. DVD-ROM, DVD-Video, DVD+R, DVD+RW, DVD-R, DVD+R9,( dual layer) DVD-RW, CD-Extra, CD-I, CD-ROM, Audio CD, CDR,CD-RW, CD-ROM, CD-ROM XA, CD Test, Photo CD, Hybrid CD what we need to ascertain now is what discs your player will handle, hence the request for the actual model numbers for each player
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it does help us to help you if we know the make and model of the player. we can check/google what its specs are regarding what discs it will or will not play.
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just look for numbers on the front of the player, failing that look on the back where the make and model will be on a sticker or a plate
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25th at 10am sounds better LOL..... Seriously , have to wait and see what the Guv'ner decides