dbminter

It is quite common for errors to occur at layer breaks of multi-layer media. The problem is a poor implementation of the write strategy in the firmware. This can generally only be fixed by updating the firmware or trying a different BD burner that might like those media better. The easiest and cheapest solution is to first check for a firmware update for your Pioneer. In Write mode, right click on the Pioneer drive in the drop down list of target devices and choose the last option in the context menu which should say something like Check for firmware updates. Other than that, I'd try an LG drive like the WH16NS60, which is what I use. I've never used BD-R DL media, but I have used BD-RE DL from Verbatim in the NS60 for many years.

That would be my first check. Make sure you've actually got a VIDEO_TS folder on the DVD you're trying to play in a DVD player. If you're just burning .MP4 to disc without converting first, most DVD players won't play the disc. However, if you have a DVD player that supports playing container files like MP4 from disc, then it would play fine on that player, but not on most other players. Windows doesn't care because it can natively handle containers with many different kinds of software, such as VLC.

Dell towers are really easy to work inside of. They're easy to crack open the case, easy to swap components in and out, and enough working room inside of them for someone with large hands like myself. I'm 6 foot 6 and a half so my hands are larger than most people buying PC's. For all intents and purposes, I should be building my own rigs to take into account all of this and still get what I want. But, I've never actually done that before, so I stick with prefabricated PC's. I actually tried out a Dell on LUK's recommendation 11 years ago.

I gave up on their tech support nearly 2 years ago. After times spent with their tech support, about 2 years ago, I had a relatively new XPS 8930. After only 18 months, it developed an issue where if an external HDD was connected, precisely 45 minutes later, Windows would lock up and refuse to start on restart of PC of every time. Repeated restores of images before the HDD's were connected worked fine, but regardless of the manufacturer, model, or size of the USB HDD, the lock ups occurred. Even if the HDD's were disconnected on restart of Windows, Windows stubbornly refused to start. Dell eventually wanted me to send it the entire PC to check it. Wasn't cost effective to send it in because it was out of warranty and in order to properly test it, I'd also have to send in one of my external USB HDD's for them to connect and test with. I probably wouldn't get that HDD back, so I just bought a new 8930. And their preinstalled Dell suites are almost always full of bugs, so I uninstall them whenever I get a new Dell PC. Particularly SupportAssist.

I love Dell for their prefabricated tower PC's, but their tech support totally sucks.

That ASUS model is a half height drive and not a slim. You can tell slim models by the fact that ImgBurn cannot automatically reload the drive tray once it ejects it.

Unfortunately, it's not really easy to discern the reputable discs from the non. Plus, it varies based on where you are in the world. For instance, in North America, Verbatim makes a quality BD-R, but it seems in Europe, they're using CMC. You might have luck with a seller possibly on eBay who is in North America who is willing to send to Europe. Of course, that's hardly cost effective. I've not noticed any odd behavior with the forum today, so it must have been transient.

Is your PC drive also a slim model? Slim models are rarely good. There are, of course, some good slim model units, but most are trash. The worst things that happened to the Playstation models were the creation of the slims. I had a slim model PS2 I returned right away because it would play DVD's back with skips.

Hm, that's extremely odd to get an MS DOS error on copying files. Unless you were in Command Prompt and used its COPY command. Even then, "MS DOS" is an archaic term and no longer applies to current Windows. I'd have expected a CRC error near the beginning, but getting any kind of error message on an attempt to copy reinforces my thoughts that the disc is probably no longer fully readable. You're welcome!

Given that the PS2 doesn't appear capable of reading it anymore and the read error doesn't occur into shortly after reading starts, it appears that the disc is probably no longer fully readable. I still have my original, first generation, fat model October 2000 PS2. It still works, but I haven't played a game fully in it since 2014.

It's odd you could cross flash a BH to a WH16NS60. And downgrading makes sense as most firmware is locked down so you can't regress back to older packages without unauthorized third party utilities. Pioneer drives have some such tools, but, as I said, they're not supported.

I was not aware of this. Thanks! It would serve as in between if I ever need it (I was really just suggesting the feature for future use.) if ImgBurn can't do/doesn't add the feature.

In absence of a log, the initial guess I would make is the disc went bad. It was fine a year ago when backed up but has since become partially unreadable. You could try using a different drive to make sure. Another probably sure fire way is if this PS2 game disc is a DVD. If it's a DVD, then this test will work. In File Explorer, try to copy and paste all the contents from the disc's root directory to a temporary location somewhere on an HDD. If File Explorer copies all the contents, then the disc is most likely not bad. If it fails, say it returns a CRC error, then it's either your drive or the disc that may have gone bad. If this test does work, does not rule out a problem somewhere reading the disc structure, though. When does this error pop up? Immediately or after some portion of the disc has been read in?

Depends on your definition of a few. I always try 3 times in a row before I declare a hardware failure. If you burned 3 to 5 discs that failed in a row, then it's most likely the hardware, particularly if you had no problems with these BD-R before. However, there is something to note: I 07:30:15 Destination Media Type: BD-R (Disc ID: CMCMAG-BA3-000) CMC Magnetics makes the worst optical discs out there. So, it's not uncommon to have a package of discs where a lot of them burn fine in a row and then you get some errors in a row.

The ASUS BW-16D1HT is a good enough BD model of choice so long as you don't need to burn DVD+R DL. I stopped testing it when it failed on that media, but it was working on DVD+RW, DVD-R, and BD-R. However, as I said, I never tested it beyond those 3 media types so I don't know what other gotchas may be present. Although the jury was still out on DVD+RW, I think, because I seem to recall being uncertain if the skips in playback on testing were because of the ASUS drive. I never got around to further detailed testing before the DVD+R DL failure was a deal killer.

One of the good things about LG is their very good replacement policy. I have one that I need to return sometime this week. I've been returning dead or faulty units for about 3 years now and I've never been charged a replacement fee. Even though the out of warranty replacement fee is $50, and they've told me it would cost $50, they've never actually ever charged me for a replacement, even for out of warranty units. Even if they did charge me, I'd pay for it as it's cheaper than buying a whole new unit.

I've read on these forums that it does seem to matter in what part of the world you live in that determines who makes what. So, I've heard a few times here that in Europe, Verbatim farms out to CMC for their BD-R. So, there's really not much you can do about that. Unfortunately, LG is the best of the worst. Pioneer used to make a fine product, but no more. I've been telling them of a firmware error in their drives for over 5 years now and they still haven't corrected it. The last one I had, Pioneer had to refund my money because it died before 2 months after purchase. ASUS is fine if you have no plans on burning DVD+R DL discs as it cannot properly write to those. I told them, too, what the firmware problem was, but they refuse to address it, either. The different model numbering schemes of Pioneers generally refer to the extra features they have. For instance, the base model doesn't support XL media. One model is probably an Ultra HD BD drive. If you're going to give Pioneer a try, you may want to hold off for a bit. There are rumors Pioneer is preparing the 213 line for release soon. They've already ceased production, so it goes, on the 212 series and are just selling remaining stock now to clear out for the 213's. I am waiting on the 213 to see if they've ever fixed the nagging firmware issue. If you're interested in what I use, it's the LG WH16NS60. The NS40 is cheaper, but it does not write properly to BD DL media. While I'll never use the Ultra 4K Blu-Ray feature of the NS60 that makes it more expensive, it does properly write to BD-RE DL I've tested it with.

In what part of the world are you? I've never seen Verbatim BD-R packaging like that before. I've heard of Verbatim DataLife Plus, but never DataLife. Life Series DVD and CD are the CMC junk media, but DataLife Plus CD and DVD are the Mitsubishi MKM good stuff. I think in certain parts of the world, Verbatim farms out their BD-R to CMC. In North America, the Disc ID is VERBAT-IM. Could you post an image of the label surface on top of one of these BD-R? It could be the CMC discs. I know with some CMC DVD+R, once burned, some DVD players do not recognize they're inserted. So, that could have happened with your burned BD-R in your drive. The drive isn't recognizing a CMC inserted burned disc. You can tell by putting one of these BD-R you burned in a drive and in ImgBurn in either read or write modes, there's a line in the pane of information on the right that says something like Disc ID/DID or Manufacturer ID/MID. If it says CMC, you burned a CMC. If it says VERBAT-IM, you burned one of the higher quality discs. Which means we'll have to dig deeper into the problem. But, doing that will tell if you burned a CMC or VERBAT-IM BD-R as it seems you may be a bit uncertain as to which log you may have attached. If you did brick the burner, you're probably better off just getting a new one. I've never come across that situation, but I'd say it's relatively impossible to unbrick a device without sending it in to the manufacturer. Even the, the manufacturer will just replace it because it's cheaper and easier. LG firmware updaters are, generally, smart enough to know what device you've attached and if the firmware you're trying to flash is incompatible. Unless you were using custom home brew firmware and were using an outside flasher.

If you check the bottom of the disc and see two different colors in the ring, one darker than the other, the darker area is the part that was burned. This could be your issue: I 02:20:48 Destination Media Type: BD-R (Disc ID: CMCMAG-BA5-000) CMC Magnetics makes the worst optical media out there. (Ironically enough, they own Verbatim, which also distributes the best media out there. Though they don't always MAKE their own best media.) It's not unusual to get a package of discs where some work fine but others don't. Do you have an image of the packaging you can link? It's a bit odd for Verbatim BD-R to use CMC MAG, as the normal Disc ID, at least in North America, has VERBAT-IM in it. I've used that drive you're using a long time ago, and I do know it works on Verbatim BD-R when the Disc ID has VERBAT-IM in it.

TDK made the CMC DVD-R I tested out cheaply from Big Lots. So, they weren't an expensive gamble to see if they were any good. But, it does go to show TDK will use CMC. Ironically enough, TDK made decent DVD+R DL last time I tested them. The Verbatim AZO will say so on the package. For instance, I've used these before, currently unavailable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00008L3HV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 The inkjet label CD-R's you linked look like the good stuff I've gotten. Here are the last good Mitsubishi CD-R I got: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0001LS35W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1 Granted, I haven't gotten any of those in over 6 years. So, they may no longer be the same high quality they used to be.

What you want to look for are Verbatim, but NOT the Life Series. They're called DataLife Plus. They might also be listed as AZO dye. You will only find them online. You tried Amazon; was that Amazon.com in the US? I get my Verbatim DataLife Plus/AZO CD-R from Amazon.com in the US.

Probably false positives for PUP's, as I said. Just because the disc surface has been polished up doesn't mean the data itself isn't unreadable. And if you're getting other discs that read in ImgBurn and not this one disc, then it's pretty much the disc that won't read is the problem. You will know for sure if Alcohol doesn't work or if another drive doesn't.

I suggested the Alcohol as a final proof of concept. We know there's a problem reading this disc in ImgBurn. If it fails in a 2nd drive AND in Alcohol, then the problem is definitely the disc.

I haven't used it in years, but I'd suggest trying the Alcohol site. http://trial.alcohol-soft.com/en/downloadtrial.php There are free trial and free edition downloads at that site. As I said, it's been a long time since I've used it, so I don't remember what the free editions can and can't do. I would guess the free editions probably can't write images, but they may be able to save as ISO or whatever format is necessary that ImgBurn can burn. Those AV warnings may simply be PUP alerts. PUP's are Potentially Unwanted Programs, not viruses. The software may ask you if you want to install some other bundled software along with it, particularly if it's free, so don't get click happy installing it. AV vendors often times lump PUP's into virus positives because it's simply easier on them to code.

If another drive doesn't work, try using Alcohol to read it. Some of the discs in my collection would not read with certain hardware and ImgBurn, but Alcohol did. If another drive AND another software don't work, then the culprit is probably the disc has gone bad with age and simply can't be read fully anymore. It is almost 20 years since the retirement of the original Playstation hardware.