dbminter

There are SOME good Verbatim discs. In fact, the good Verbatim are the best you can usually get. However, it's a different story with BD-R, depending on where you live. In some countries, even the Verbatim BD-R are ONLY the CMC junk. In the US where I live, Verbatim BD-R is the quality VERBAT-IM Disc ID. DVD+/-R are a different story. What you want are DataLife Plus or AZO discs, not the Life Series you find in stores. Those will be CMC junk. However, some LG drives don't like the good Verbatim DVD stuff. So, another possible choice to try is "genuine" Taiyo Yuden DVD media. Unfortunately, guess who owns both TY and Verbatim? Yes, CMC! But, at least thus far, CMC is still allowing the good quality stuff to be made released by TY and Verbatim. The "genuine" TY are not the ones that say CMC in the Disc ID. So, you'll need to look for reviews that say TY in their DID. Or the TY's called CMC Pro. Those seem to be genuine high quality TY discs.

DVD+/-RW or CD-RW would also be a good test if you had any of those.

Do you have any BD-RE or any other BD-R besides the CMC MAG junk? I'm curious if something other than CMC MAG would cause this. Or something other than a BD-R. How about trying to burn a DVD-R or CD-R? Do you get the same behavior? Also, when the cycling does not occurs and nothing proceeds afterwards, can you manually eject the tray with the button on the drive and insert the tray again? See what happens then.

Yes, that's the nature of cheap media like CMC. Sometimes it will work and sometimes it won't. That's how terrible the quality/quality control is at CMC.

I was thinking this was the cause before I even read the log: I 11:36:27 Destination Media Type: DVD-R (Disc ID: CMC MAG. AM3) As LUK said, you're using the junk Verbatim. Verbatim releases the best media, but they also release media from the worst manufacturer out there: CMC Magnetics. If you bought these Verbatim in a brick and mortar store, you got the Life Series, which are the CMC trash. What you want are the DataLife Plus (NOT the Life Series.) or AZO media you only find in online stores like Amazon.com. CMC is repsonsible for over half of the problems we see on this board. It's generally not magic when people switch to the higher quality media over the stuff like CMC. However, it's not always a magic bullet. For instance, the LG WH16N60 appears to no longer like the quality DVD discs Verbatim releases.

This is, unfortunately, necessary to copy all DVD's made by a DVD Video Recorder in ImgBurn. ImgBurn will not read those discs because they're created with multiple tracks, which ImgBurn doesn't support. Every time you record a title on a DVD Video Recorder, the recorder creates a new track for each title.

I never tried to press the Eject button on the drive when this happens. I'll try to remember to see if I can do that next time it does.

I've got something of an odd situation here. Sometimes when my drive tries to Verify, it never actually starts. The burn completes and the tray cycles, but the Verify never starts because the device is waiting to become ready. And it stays in this state until I manually press the red cancel button. After which, cancellation occurs normally and the tray ejects. I can then reinsert the disc and do a manual Verify on the disc against the image file without errors. Unfortunately, the log isn't helpful: I 21:40:37 Cycling Tray before Verify... W 21:40:45 Waiting for device to become ready... I 21:58:14 Abort Request Acknowledged E 21:58:15 Device Not Ready - Reason: Medium Not Present - Tray Closed E 21:58:15 Operation Aborted! There's no error code because there's no abnormal end of operation. The only things that are different are I'm using a 2nd new unit of the same USB enclosure I've used for years (As a 2nd copy.) and the firmware of my LG WH16NS60 was updated out of the factory to a new version: 1.03. Any ideas what I can do to try and prevent this from happening? It only occurs about once in every 50 or so writes, but it is a bit annoying. Thanks!

That's hard to say. It seems your drive is reporting the disc is still apparently empty even though a burn was performed. You'd have to put it in another drive to see if it really can be used or not.

The most likely cause is the Ritek media you used. Ritek media has problems with its double layer discs with compatibility in a lot of drives. Try to find Verbatim BD-50 that is NOT CMC Magnetics. I don't think CMC makes BD-50 discs, but you never know. CMC is worse than Ritek, and Verbatim, which releases great discs, also releases CMC .

I thought DVD+R had the tiny bit more space? My recommendation was going to be on reading the first post to try something other than the RITEK media. Many drives don't like Ritek media. Ritek can be decent 2nd tier quality, but in many countries, Ritek is cheaper media. I would try Verbatim DataLife Plus (NOT Life Series you find in stores; they're worse than Ritek! The DataLife Plus stuff can only be found online.) or Verbatim AZO discs. Those are generally the better media, but, again, not all drives, like the LG WH16NS60, like them.

I have seen cases in my own experience where on the CD/DVD laser, reads are fine but writes still failed. Reading data is a much simpler operation than writing it, so reading would have the potential to still work whereas writes may not. I've not observed that in BD personally, though. Now, I'm not familiar with those MBI media, but Ritek and CMCMAG (DEFINITELY CMCMAG.) are known to be cheap and problematic media. So, if the other kind of disc is also cheap, it could be just a case of cheap BD-R media across the board in all 3 cases. Normally when I get Verbatim BD-R, it's the quality VERBAT-IM discs from Amazon.com. However, for others in other countries, it's known to get CMCMAG for BD-R from Verbatim. To put it into perspective, CMC Magnetics causes over 50% of the problems seen on this forum. So, without you trying known good Verbatim VERBAT-IM BD-R media, I can't really tell you if it's a failure in your BD laser or just cheap media. One thing that bears pointing out is your drive is nearing 7 years old. Media manufacturing techniques change many times over the course of a period like that. There's no guarantee to be backwards compatibility with older hardware.

It's probably not a media issue as you say you tried 3 different discs from different manufacturers (Ritek, Verbatim, and a "local one.") but get the same results. Unless all 3 have the same Disc ID, which is unlikely, it's probably not a media issue. But, you could try putting in one of each of those 3 types of BD-R into a BD drive, opening ImgBurn in Write mode, and check the pane of information in the right side. Look for different Disc ID's. If they're all the same, then it could be a media issue. However, you'll generally find Verbatim using either CMC or VERBAT-IM in their BD-R Disc ID's. The one in your log is MBI-R06-000, which I'm not familiar with, so it may be the "local one." Definitely try updating the firmware first before going any further. What could be indicative of a problem with your BD drive is you say CD/DVD burn fine but all your BD-R attempts are not. This could actually be very informative. There are actually 2 lasers in a BD burner. One for CD and DVD and the other for BD. The BD laser may have gone bad but your CD/DVD laser is still functioning. How long have you been using this drive? If not very long, then it may have shipped defective from the factory.

Not entirely sure what the .LOG file is for. It's probably definitely not standardized Audio CD format. You'd end up with a Mixed Mode CD adding that .LOG file, so you can probably disregard it. If you're going to create an Audio CD with FLAC files, you'll need to install madFLAC first before using ImgBurn to create the Audio CD.

That log is an empty file.

You can probably save a disc by posting a log.

And a log will tell us if you're using quality discs or cheap discs. Cheaper discs have a higher likelihood of not being readable on some hardware.

ImgBurn is not the droids you are looking for. ImgBurn just burns what you feed it and can create images with what you feed it. Depending on how this karaoke DVD is authored, it could be a standard DVD Video or a DVD Audio. If it's a DVD Audio, then the audio is contained in the menus, so you can't effectively extract it. You can save the VOB's but there's no navigating VOB's files directly except from beginning to end or randomly jumping into points in the file. If it's a DVD Video, you could potentially use a piece of free but old software called DVDShrink to save each title to an extracted VOB with IFO. Freemake should then be able to load the .IFO's, but it's been many years since I last used Freemake Video Converter. I prefer to use ConvertXToDVD to convert various VOB/IFO extracts to DVD. I believe Handbrake would also load these VOB/IFO's and offer to save each individual Title to a container like MP4. IF each song is a Title unto itself, Handbrake can then batch convert the VIDEO_TS contents to individual containers. However, I believe the maximum number of Titles a DVD can have is 99, so if you have 260 songs on a single DVD, they probably are not individual titles but contained in the menus, which would indicate it's a DVD Audio disc.

What it probably really boils down to is what BD burner you're using and the DID of the BD-RE you're using. The bottom line is, generally, a lot of BD burners simply don't like BD DL media. Like LG's WH16NS40. One reason why I don't get the cheaper NS40 and buy the NS60. The NS60, at least, properly handles BD DL media. Do you have any sort of log info from an attempt to zero one of these BD-RE DL? Probably not if you have to force close down ImgBurn.

I'm not entirely sure what you're asking. You seem to imply that you thought ImgBurn converts video to DVD? ImgBurn doesn't do any video conversion. As for reinstalling the codecs, that probably won't help with a problem of bad video quality. It depends on what you're using for video conversion. I use ConvertXToDVD.

I'm not sure what you mean by a crossed out circle that appears. Can you post a screen capture so I can see what it is? If you want to create an Audio CD from FLAC, you'll need to install madFLAC before ImgBurn can process them. MP3 is natively supported, though.

Some drives don't like writing to DL BD media. The LG WH16NS40 is one such drive I've encountered. ASUS may be the same. I know the BW-16D1HT was absolute junk. Destroyed brand new rewritable Ritek 8x DVD+RW and Memorex/Ritek BD-RE.

You're welcome! Now, there are other freeware utilities that do DVD Video conversion, but I haven't used them in a long time. And they all had serious drawbacks to the paid for software. Like taking hours to do what CXD can do in like 20 minutes or really terrible video quality on playback. So, you could try doing a search for such things if you want to try out a piece of free software.

I think you're missing the point of what ImgBurn does. ImgBurn just burns what you feed it. It does no converting to DVD Video, which is what you appear to want. It sounds like you're trying to feed ImgBurn an MP4 and expect a DVD to play on a DVD player when you insert it? This is not what ImgBurn does. Now, if your DVD player supports playing MP4 container files natively from disc, you can do what you did and play the MP4 from the disc on your DVD player, but that's just playing a container file, not playing a DVD. If you want a disc that starts playing a DVD when you insert it, you want a DVD Video disc. You need to first convert the MP4 to VIDEO_TS format output. I use ConvertXToDVD to do this, but it requires a paid license. However, it does have, I believe, an uncrippled 7 day free trial with no watermarks or anything like that. You can then burn an ISO directly made by CXD, take its ISO and burn it with ImgBurn, or have CXD create a VIDEO_TS and you create your own ISO with ImgBurn from the VIDEO_TS.

Most likely updating ImgBurn to any new version number would not stop the false positives Norton is returning. Most likely, Norton is flagging it as a PUP, Potentially Unwanted Program, because of part of what is bundled with the software.