dbminter

If you're really curious, you could always open a Command Prompt and use the COMP command to compare one ISO against the other to see if the contents are exactly the same. Or, to save some time, since that will take a bit to run that COMP, you could use Properties in File Explorer for each ISO and check their file sizes against each other.

I just got a cake stack of 100 of those CMCPro DVD-R off of Amazon.com. They do say Disc ID: TYG03 and that was actually printed on the label. For once, an optical disc manufacturer actually said who made them on the package! I'm burning my first one right now, but they should be okay. The burn just now completed as I type and the Verify has started. Verify completed. DVDShrink read of a Panasonic DVD Video recorder disc that I copied from its 18 year old source disc to one of these CMCPro discs also passed. So, unless there's some kind of problem I'm not expecting with playback, like the PS3 not recognizing inserted media or playing back with skips, pops, hisses, or pauses, these discs should be as good as the TYG03 TY's I've been getting off of Amazon.com as well.

I finally have some empirical evidence of just how long a quality DVD-R will last. I came across a PrimeDisc DVD-R I recorded on 2002-07-11. The MID is RITEKG03. This disc was still readable, a single VIDEO_TS from a Panasonic DVD Video recorder, into a new Build job ISO and creating. The disc passed a read of its contents in DVDShrink as well. So, a good 18 to 19 years has passed thus far. It's not too far fetched to say a quality DVD-R will last 20 years at least. And PrimeDisc wasn't exactly a household name. Although they apparently made a quality disc 18 plus years ago, farming out to Ritek. Ritek is a known quantity and I've found their discs are good 2nd tier quality material, although in places outside of North America, Ritek media seems to be pretty bad. So, it appears to be a quality disc, and a known quality manufacturer like Taiyo Yuden or Mitsubishi would probably last just as long and, most likely, longer.

Probably the fault of the Ritek disc you used. They're known to be problematic for some drives. I'm surprised you had better luck with an LG because my experience has been LG DVD drives won't read in discs other drives do. What I'd do at this point is put this disc in a CD player and try to play Track 12 all the way through. If the CD player won't play the track, then the disc is probably unreadable at that point and there's nothing you can do.

I've got one of these: https://www.officedepot.com/a/products/460958/Verbatim-External-Slimline-CD-And-DVD/ It is a slim line, but it seems to be better than most slim drives. I've not used them to test reading PS CD's, though. My main burner is a half height BD drive I put in an external enclosure. The BD drive is an LG WH16NS60 and the enclosure is a VanTech USB 3.0, since BD needs that. You can probably get by with a USB 2.x enclosure. However, it's been like a decade since I last bought an internal DVD drive, so I don't know what's good in that field or not.

Sounds like you've got a more serious problem in your wall outlet.

Could be the disc has gone bad over the years. Best let LUK see if he can glean anything from reading the debug logs provided. I don't know how the Playstation Classic works. I don't know what it imports, like what file types. ISO?

And it may be that ImgBurn simply can't image that PS disc. I have one in my collection, Mega Man 8, that ImgBurn simply can't image. I had to use Alcohol 120%, which I believe there was a free version, to image that particular game.

If you see the Search field in the upper right corner of the board, you'll see a magnifying glass; click on it and choose More Options, choose Content titles only under Find results in. Then do a search for the word semaphore. There are 2 pages of topics that have semaphore in their Titles. This will help narrow down the search. However, I haven't actually looked at the results, so there may not be much useful info there. There are probably things like try changing your USB cable or use a different USB port, which you're welcome to try, but most likely won't fix the issue. The underlying cause is a hardware one: a conflict between the ALI USB bridge in the USB burner and the USB controller on the motherboard in your PC. The only solution that has ever worked for me was to get a new burner.

BTW, that Sabrent link was for hard drive enclosures. It's for hard drives and probably won't fit an external slim model optical drive.

I've actually only ever bought one slim model drive that did not come new with a PC. It was a USB model sold by Verbatim and it did not say it was slim on the box. You can tell a slim model because they're slim. Slim model drives are about 2.625 inches thick; though they're called half height drives, they actually take put a "full" size bay in a PC case. Half height models are 5.25" thick. I've only ever used this USB model for reading, with a few write tests. So, I can't say how well that drive I got at Office Depot might do for writing as I haven't performed enough or long term tests. I've never actually bought a USB 2.x enclosure. All enclosures I've had were 3.0, necessary for the BD burners I was putting in them. You'll get by cheaper with a USB 2.x enclosure versus a 3.0, though, so if you don't necessarily need 3.0 for a 3.0 device, you can get by with a 2.x. However, since I've never actually bought a 2.x enclosure, I can't recommend X won't give you grief. Because the problem lies with the ALI USB bridge in the external drive and the USB controller on your motherboard. Without knowing the make/model of both in the devices you have or want to try, I can't guarantee anything will work. Those purple Verbatim do say AZO so they are the better quality media. However, those are DVD+R and the ones you were using were DVD-R. If that doesn't matter to you, then it doesn't make too much difference. DVD-R has better compatibility with older DVD players and playback devices and are slightly larger. DVD+R has a shorter WriteIn lead time, so the burning is a bit faster. I prefer DVD-R for its better compatibility and slightly larger size. Sabrent makes good stuff. They made the USB 2.x and 3.0 external HDD connections I've used in the past. I still have the 3.0 one just in case I ever need to access a spare mechanical HDD I have. Again, though, I've never used a USB 2.x enclosure or one from Sabrent. The USB 3.0 enclosures I've used in the past are from Other World Computing and VanTech; each have their own problems. The OWC one is easier to put drives in and out of, but, on 3 Dell's I've used them on, they have a major flaw. If the drive ever errors out or you power it off, after it's been powered back on, Windows will fail to recognize the drive is connected until Windows is restarted. The problems with VanTech's enclosure is they're a bit more difficult to swap drives into and out of. Plus, they're Chinese made, so the quality is iffy. The first one I received was utter junk. The 2nd one I tried was great. The 3rd one was slightly off balance. Not enough to affect reading or writing. but when you put discs in the tray with the enclosure on its side, it wobbles a bit. So, it's up to you what you want to go for. You could try a USB 3.0 if you're willing to pay for something you don't really need, but it will work with USB 2.x cables and connections. I've only ever put Blu-Ray burners in these USB 3.0 enclosures so I can't say how well they work for DVD burners.

Those orange ones in the link you posted say Life Series on them, so, yes, they're the CMC junk. You'd have to provide a link to these purple ones you described as I don't know what that necessarily means. As long as it doesn't say Life Series on it and says DataLife Plus or AZO, you're fine. It will definitely change your experience. You'll have fewer chances for failures if you switch away from CMC. However, with semaphore timeout issues and the like, better media most likely won't help in a case like that. It MAY as the bad media may be causing semaphore timeout issues attempting to burn, but I can't say for certain switching to the good media will help. You'll be better off in the long run, though, with better quality media. They'll last longer than CMC media and have a better chance of playing with other drives and standalone players. I'd recommend giving the better media a shot, at least. If it does solve the semaphore timeout issue, getting better quality media is definitely a cheaper solution than getting a whole other drive, which may also have a semaphore timeout problem. And, in the long run, you're better off using the higher quality media, over all.

Anyway, I now see this isn't an ImgBurn issue as I had forgotten it also affected other applications like Macrium Reflect and the screen saver. So, I'm sorry for taking up space here with this. Unless someone can think of something else, I guess we can consider this issue closed.

That won't work. I didn't enable the screen saver on my last test. I just locked Windows, turned off the monitor, turned it back on, and logged back into Windows. The ImgBurn Log window had moved again without the screen saver coming into play at all. But, if I did let the screen saver activate, the problem would persist because it persisted without the screen saver activating.

Those Verbatim discs you got from Best Buy were the Life Series CMC junk. I forgot to mention you can't find the good Verbatim in brick and mortar stores; you can only find them online. Officedepot.com and Amazon.com have them.

A few things of note: 1.) don't use the cheap CMC MAG discs. They are the worst out there and cause 50% of the problems here. Try Verbatim DataLife Plus/AZO. Do NOT get the Life Series Verbatim you find in brick and mortar stores. They will be CMC. Although, I don't THINK this will solve your problem, a.) it might and b.) you should avoid the CMC junk to begin with. 2.) your drive is a slim model burner. Slim models are generally junk. Try getting a half height drive and putting it in a USB enclosure. 3.) the semaphore timeout issue is generally a problem with the USB bridge in your USB drive conflicting with the USB controller on your PC's motherboard. This is what I think is generally causing your problems. Particularly the issue about the drive not being connected. The only solution is to replace the USB burner, replace the USB bridge in the USB burner, or replace the USB controller on your mobo. It's generally easier just to replace entire USB burner than try the other options. Cheaper, too.

Nope, didn't work! I knew it wouldn't.

Yes, I had dismissed the resolution changing because I thought it wasn't happening. I had forgotten about the screen saver changing size. But your link may just do the trick. I will try it out. I'm quite adept at following technological instructions.

Oh, one other data point. When I lock Windows, eventually, the screen saver activates. When I power back on the monitor and the screen saver is activated, the "screen" has shrunk to smaller sized square on the left side of the screen, with black areas under it and on the right side.

Yes, back when I had a dedicated nVidia graphics card in my last Dell XPS 8930, this issue was not present. Nor was it ever present on any of my DVI nVidia graphics card enabled PC's. Just on this current model of the XPS 8930, which has no dedicated graphics card and must use UHD/HDMI to connect on the mobo.

I was hoping the answer might be as simple as the PS3 is less forgiving a reader than a PC optical burner drive. That would, at least, make sense. Now, I STILL have no idea why the discs can be read on my PC by two different applications but don't playback properly on the PS3 because the disc has reached the end of its write lifespan.

It's 255 characters for the total path, which, I think, also includes the file name itself.

I would say the MDS doesn't care about extension case. If you want to see, create a disc image and then rename the .ISO to .iso. Then, load the MDS in ImgBurn for writing and try to burn the MDS to a rewritable disc so you don't waste a disc. If after you rename the extension to lower case and ImgBurn still burns the MDS file fine, then you can pretty much guarantee the case for the extension doesn't matter.

Question: I burned a DVD Video image to an 8x Ritek DVD+RW. The Burn passed. The Verify passed. I made an ISO image of the DVD+RW in Read Mode. I loaded the disc in DVDShrink and performed a read test on it, which passed. So, why in the HELL did my PS3 choke on trying to play the very end of it?! This generally means, when playing a rewritable DVD with a DVD Video on it that the disc has reached the end of its life span. What happens is the disc plays back with pauses and skips, which means the disc can't be properly read because it had died. I performed the same Read mode test in ImgBurn and the read processing in DVDShrink on this same disc and they still pass, yet my PS3 doesn't like to play the disc. Is an optical disc PC burner more forgiving when it comes to reads? Is a standalone DVD player less forgiving when it comes to reads? Thanks!

I don't know. Sounds very complex. Probably won't address my issue as it's not a power saving mode thing. It's powering off the monitor manually.