dbminter

There's one common thread I noticed in all the failed burns in the log. And, it was what I expected was probably the problem before I opened the log file. I 13:19:59 Destination Media Type: CD-R (Disc ID: 97m26s66f, CMC Magnetics Corp.) Stop using cheap CMC media and your problems generally go away. Get the high quality AZO media from Verbatim. Do NOT get the Verbatim Life Series CD-R you find in brick mortar stores. Those are CMC. You can only find the AZO/DataLife Plus Verbatim CD-R in online stores. About half of the problems we see here are caused by CMC media and the problems generally disappear when the higher quality Verbatim media is used. To cover all bases, were these CMC discs used before without problems or is this the first time these CMC discs are being used? If the CMC discs worked before, you shouldn't be using them, but if they worked and if you want to keep using cheap media, your drive probably needs replacing then.

I didn't factor in you might be a user from somewhere other than the US. Another option to consider is mechanical USB 3.0 HDD's. The capacities are ridiculously high for like $100 US. The speeds are capped at USB 3.0, but are faster than an optical drive. The biggest selling point is the capacity for the price. Best Buy here in the States currently has on offer a 16 TB drive for $259.99 US. I paid that price for 14 TB back in July! And there's an even higher capacity than that of 18 TB at a price of $349.99 US.

I can't tell much from the link you posted, but they do appear to be the good quality stuff. On the page is a listing for "Mkm003-000." MKM is part of the Disc ID of the high quality Verbatim DVD+R DL made by Mitsubishi. I'm not entirely sure what your question about how the BD-R technology works means. If you were going to use BD-R, you would, of course, need a Blu-Ray burner. However, creating images and burning them to BD-R with ImgBurn is mostly the same as doing it for DVD's. BD-R isn't too expensive when you buy them in bulk. You can get them for less than $1 each. Plus, it's good value for the price when you factor in how much longer BD-R will last in terms of shelf life versus DVD+R DL. And, you seemed to indicate your primary concern was long term storage.

There is really only one option to choose from when it comes to double layer DVD. That is Verbatim DataLife Plus/AZO. NOT the Life Series you find in brick and mortar stores, which is CMC, the WORST you can get. You can only find the good Verbatim in online stores. However, I have had good results with TDK DVD+R DL in the past. They complete burns and Verifies and were still readable years later. If you're just considering backing up these DVD's after making video files for watching on a video server, you might want to forgo using DVD+R DL for your backups. They use organic dyes and will die faster. BD-R uses metallic oxides which will last much longer. Of course, if you want to watch these discs, you'll need to burn them to DVD+R DL for viewing in a standard DVD player. But, if you just have a collection of MP4 files or MKV, you could consider just making an ISO in ImgBurn of those video files and burn that to BD-R. Or you could create image files of the DVD's and copy those to a BD-R. A BD-R will hold 3 DVD-9's. (Unless they're all nearly full on disc, which means you'll only get 2.)

888%? Please post a log of a failed burn. Under Help, choose the ImgBurn Log option. The .LOG file opens in your default text editor. Copy and paste the portion of a failed burn and Verify from the log into a new post here. Until I see the log, I have a possibility. You said you've been using these discs for a year and a half now. My guess would be your burner has reached the end of its life. It's rare to get a burner that lasts longer than 7 months of use nowadays.

Are you using the same WH16NS40's crossflashed to WH16NS58 on these new HP Elitebooks or are you using different drives that came with the HP's? Those drives in the HP's may have drives that don't support DiscSpeed. BTW, I've not heard of the WH16NS58. I have heard of the WH16NS40 and the WH16NS60, but never the NS58.

Ritek I've found to be a decent 2nd tier manufacturer of optical discs, but they are known to cause problems with many burners. DataLife Plus/AZO is the best stuff out there. There are rarely issues with those.

And you found these AZO DVD-R in a brick and mortar store? If so, that's very unusual. Mostly, Verbatim only sells bottom of the barrel Life Series from CMC in brick and mortar stores. AZO is generally only found online.

I haven't used Sony DVD-R in over 10 years, but last time I used them, Sony had stopped making their own higher quality discs and had farmed out to Ritek. If you found those Verbatim in brick and mortar stores, they're the Life Series, which you must avoid. AZO is quality stuff, but you said they were CD-R? CD-R are recordable CD's and probably won't be fit for your purpose here. (Depends on what you want this DVD to do and how large it is.) If they are AZO DVD-/+R, give those a try.

Yes, I would also first try some DataLife Plus/AZO discs from Verbatim. Do NOT get the Life Series you find in stores; they are worse than the RITEK ones! The DataLife Plus/AZO discs are only found in online stores like Amazon.com. Or try some genuine high quality Taiyo Yuden DVD-R.

Depends on what a 26GO is. .IMG is supported by ImgBurn. Did you mean 26 GB? If so, yes, ImgBurn supports double layer BD-R. You do need a double, triple, or quad layer BD disc and a BD burner that supports double, triple, or quad layer discs for burning.

Well, you're not using cheap discs, which was my initial diagnosis, so where do we go from here? Looks like you're trying to burn a PS2 game disc image. Did you make this image or download it? If you didn't make this image from a source disc, the image file could be corrupt. Other than that, it could be a conflict between your Optiarc drive and the MCC DVD-R. Just because MCC DVD-R is the best you can get doesn't mean your drive will necessarily like them. You could try and see if there's firmware update for your Optiarc drive that addresses this incompatibility issue. In Write mode, right click on the burner drive letter and choose the check for firmware update option at the bottom of the context menu that appears. If there's not a firmware update, try getting a cheap external USB drive and see if that burns any better. The last thing to try is try using something other than Verbatim DataLife Plus/AZO MCC DVD-R. Try high quality Taiyo Yuden DVD-R (Not the cheaper stuff.). That my help.

It may take some implementation, but something I'd like to see added to ImgBurn is the ability to view the contents of an image loaded for Write in ImgBurn. I realize you can mount images as virtual drives to do this, but that's an extra step outside of ImgBurn. And, I know if it's an ISO, you can natively navigate those in Windows to view the contents. But, things like split images made by ImgBurn require generating .DVD files for certain applications. And I know certain applications like UltraISO can load images for viewing the contents, but that's, again, extra steps outside of ImgBurn that could be saved. Thanks!

Since just under 47 minutes is the longest side you have, in the worst case scenario, you could put Side 1 on one CD and Side 2 on another disc. I had a book that had been read to MP3's for blind people that I made a book on CD out of. Due to the length of some of the chapters being long, I could only fit 1 chapter onto some of the CD's. The chapters were under 50 minutes, but just long enough that I could only fit 1 chapter per disc on in some occasions. I ended up with 7 CD's in that case. I've been meaning to dig out those discs and convert them into one of my DVD Video books on CD DVD's. Compress my collection down a bit by 7 audio CD's to 1 DVD Video.

Yes, they used to make 90 minute CD-R's, but they weren't widely supported. And I don't think they're made anymore. When you say one of the tapes is 90 minutes long, do you mean one SIDE is 90 minutes long or both sides together make for a 90 minute tape? If it's the latter, you could just make 2 CD's for that one tape, Side 1 on one CD and Side 2 on another. I don't know of any tape format that allowed for 90 minutes on one side. As I said before, 1 hour sides on a 2 hour tape was the largest running time format I am aware of that they manufactured.

What I did with my audio tape collection was I bought a device that converts audio tape to MP3's on a flash drive. I then converted those MP3's to DVD Video. But, what you could do is convert your tapes to MP3 and do like you say. However, I have to wonder what type of tapes you are actually talking about. The longest running type of audio tape I have ever known to be manufactured was the 2 hour variety, an hour of recording time on each side. Since a CD runs over an hour of recording time, I don't see why you can't convert each side of a tape to its own CD.

The short answer is no. "Normal" CD player implies a standalone CD player. Those only play CD's because when they were made, there were no such things as DVD's. Now, some DVD players, particularly modern ones, play CD's as a bonus to get you to buy them over others that don't. If your DVD player supports reading container files like MP3 from discs, what you could do is burn a bunch of MP3's made from a CD to the DVD. The long answer: I have a way of copying CD's to DVD's that play as DVD Video, but it requires software that isn't free and a little bit of know how. Plus, this method is not ideal for music CD's. It's best for books on CD, etc. that have more than 1 disc, where you can put an entire book on 1 DVD-9. Or a CD boxed set of an audio play like the Doctor Who ones Big Finish releases.

Yeah, this forum isn't dead. It's not jumping and jiving, but it's not dead. Every few days, someone posts some request for help. Even the occasional spam.

You say this has never happened before, but have you always used these MKM discs? Those are the quality Verbatim discs, so you're not using junk discs. If you've had no problem with these discs before and you've burned a good deal of them, then you probably need to replace your drive. If this is your first time trying to burn these MKM discs, it may be your drive doesn't like them. Try updating the firmware if there is one.

I honestly don't use BD DL media anymore. I used to use BD-RE DL to write the monthly Windows data backups to external media. But, since flash drives (And now USB SSD's.) got lower in cost and higher capacities, plus are much faster, I switched to those.

You could try not using the cheap CMC MAG discs. However, if they worked before, changing to something other than cheap media probably wouldn't work. But, you would be able to narrow it down to the drive if you tried the better Verbatim (NOT Life Series.) BD-R and got the same results.

The problem is either your drive or Windows in conjunction with the drive. You say your PS3 recognizes data on these discs but Windows does not? Since the PS3 recognizes data on them, ImgBurn is writing data to them. It's just Windows is not recognizing it. When you get one of these BD that Windows shows is blank, go into Read mode and see if ImgBurn recognizes a disc is inserted. Then, try reading that BD to an image file. If ImgBurn can recognize data on the disc, it's a Windows problem, most likely. If ImgBurn can't recognize data on the disc, I'd be more likely to blame the drive as being problematic.

What do you mean by CDE? Do you mean CDR and it's a typo? So, you're saying the CD-RW boots, but the ISO you made from the CD-RW and you're burning to CD-R doesn't boot? What created the ISO? ImgBurn's Read of the CD-RW or Build mode creating a new ISO?

Of those 3 drives, the only one I would recommend is one you don't have on your list. I use the LG WH16NS60. NOT the 40. The problems with the Pioneer drive: Pioneer has gradually declined in quality until it's unacceptable in its current state. The first Pioneer I had lasted almost 2 years. The last one I had didn't last 2 months. Plus, they keep borking the firmware. They keep messing it up so now it can't properly write to Ritek 8x DVD+RW discs anymore. The problem with the WH16NS40 is precisely what you want to use it for. Data backups to BD media. While single layer BD media is fine in the NS40, double layer BD and BD-RE WILL fail 9 times out of 10! If you don't plan on using BD-R DL or BD-RE DL, it's fine, though. I don't recall too much about the WH14NS40. so it may have been fine. I just don't remember if I ever had that model and if I did, what peculiarities it might have had.

Yeah, if you can buy blanks one at a time, that's definitely cheaper. However, be aware the nature of the beast means one disc can work fine and then the next won't.