dbminter

Depends. Does your Blu-Ray player support playing container files like MP4 natively from a disc like a Blu-Ray? If it doesn't support native playing of containing files, that's why it doesn't work. If it doesn't, you can't put an MP4 on a disc and get it to play from the disc. You'd need to convert the MP4 to Blu-Ray Movie format.

This is a brief overview of my years of using LG's WH16NS60 BD burner. I use this as my go to BD burner for now. It's the best of worst so far. It has a few drawbacks. For instance, it cannot write to the higher quality Verbatim MCC DVD-R or DVD+R. The MCC 03RG20 DVD-R will either fail to complete burns, fail Verify afterwards, or playback with skips and pops. LG refuses to acknowledge Verbatim/CMC has changed the dye formula, even though 2 years of results on different samples of the drive, 2 different firmware revisions, and different cake stacks bear this out, when the MID had been working before. Other than the above, the NS60 has passed every single quality disc I thew at it. For instance, it may choke on CMC MID discs but I don't use those. It is also, unusually for an LG drive, a pretty good reader. It's not failed to read anything I've thrown at it that wasn't degraded to begin with and failed in other drives. This is a change of pace for LG's drive which I've found to be problematic in the past failing to read discs other drives would. The drive is slower at Verifies, though, versus, say, a Pioneer or ASUS. Another speed issue is when the drive encounters a buffering issue, regardless of how fast it reached before. When it resumes writing, it's maximum write speed is significantly slower than the maximum allowed. Another speed issue is 16x DVD-R will write at 16x but only gets there with under 1 minute before the burn ends. Also, 16x rated Verbatim BD-R burns at a maximum of 12x only, unlike Pioneer or ASUS.

I get 2 different values for MID and DID, though. For instance, my Taiyo Yuden DVD-R have an MID of TYG03, but the Disc ID is 0@P-!-00, some apparently random text.

What exactly is the Disc ID? The Manufacturer ID, of course, lists who made the disc, but the Disc ID has me confused. The Disc ID seems to be the same for all the discs in the cake stack. Thanks!

I've gone through almost 50 of the 100 supply of CMCPro I bought. No errors burning thus far. And what few I actually watched all the way through played back without errors. Most of these burns were discs I'd already burned nearly 20 years ago. However, they didn't have inkjet printable covers and some were of lesser (And even bad.) quality. Plus, many were Panasonic DVD video recorder discs, which cannot be read to ISO's natively. But, you can copy the VIDEO_TS from them to a new ISO, burn that ISO, and can image that new disc. So, many of these discs weren't watched because there was no need to. @ianymaty Thanks for pointing those out to me!

I had an extra drive lying around so I tried this out. As I TOLD you Ghostbuster failed miserably. The ghosted device was removed, but when the enclosure was powered off and back on, Windows never recognized the device until Windows was restarted. Disconnecting and reconnecting the USB cable doesn't cause this. Only powering off the enclosure does it. Scanning for hardware changes in Device Manager never finds the device. And the device is not in the list of CD/DVD drives. Only cycling Windows with the enclosure powered on causes the OS to find the device when its power cycled. Which is why I cannot recommend the Other World Computing enclosure.

I definitely wouldn't put it past a 6 year old drive to need replacing. I have only ever seen 1 report, on this board, where someone had a drive still using it after that long. Someone said their drive was 10 years old.

You'd be surprised at how fast a drive can die. Defective units, within a month or 2. Somewhat defective ones, 4 months. Standard 9 to 12 months. The best I ever got out of a drive was 2 and a half years, but that was back when Pioneer made a quality product. It's not an all or none situation. When a drive goes bad, it's not uncommon for only one aspect of it to stop working. The rest will work fine. Plus, reads are less error prone than writes. However, I am still looking at the CMC discs as the problem. If they really have been sitting around for 4 yeas, they probably went bad. Try some new media.

Well, it probably won't solve the immediate problem. If you've been using these CMC MAG's for a while without a problem, the problem is either CMC changed the formula for those discs or your drive is going bad. However, you say these discs have been sitting around for 4 years before you used them? I wouldn't put it past cheap CMC junk to be unusable after 4 years. And, if these aren't new discs, you can rule out a change in disc formulation. I can't guarantee it will solve your problem, but that's what I'd do first. It's the cheapest and easiest solution. And, if it doesn't work, at least you have quality media to use with another drive if you need to replace it. Disc cleaners rarely do any good. They're designed to be sold. However, some people have had luck using them or blowing some compressed air into a drive. Or, at worst, a total disassembly of the drive for a thorough cleaning.

This is probably your problem: I 12:22:37 Destination Media Type: DVD-R (Disc ID: CMC MAG. AM3) Have you used these same discs before back when you said you had recorded to DVD-R before? CMC Magnetics makes the worst media out there. Incompatible media errors and errors such as inserting a disc after burn not being recognized are common with CMC media. Try powering off the PC and cycling it back on, but, next time, don't use the CMC MAG junk. Use Verbatim DataLife Plus (NOT the Life Series you find in brick and mortar stores. Those are CMC.) or AZO DVD-R, which you will only find in online stores.

As for files, I don't think there's a filter option available. For folders, about all you can do is what you'd have to do with files. You add the root directory and then manually delete the folders you don't want from the root. And, with files, you'd add all the files and manually delete the ones you don't want. You can do all of that in Build mode. No need to mount/edit the ISO.

Hm, maybe this upcoming Windows 10 Windows Update might address this issue: https://www.pcworld.com/article/3616968/microsoft-is-finally-fixing-windows-most-annoying-multi-monitor-bug.html

I've burned several of those CMCPro discs and watched a few and I've had no playback issues with them. So, these CMCPro TYG03 appear to be the same high quality discs Taiyo Yuden used to make themselves.

I would have done the Virtual CloneDrive thing first as that's my go to application for mounting images. I didn't think about using just one VCD drive and mounting the different ISO's to the same drive each time a disc was called for. That was good thinking. Glad it worked!

If by remove the device you mean deleting its entry in Device Manager, no, I didn't try that. Didn't think of that. I did try removing the USB cable from the port on the PC, turning the device back on, and reinserting the cable; that didn't work. In about a month or 2, I intend on trying an ASUS BD again. This could be a chance to try out this Device Manager/Ghostbuster tip. I have to question whether this Device Manager deletion would matter, though. The device is recognized on rebooting the PC, which leads me to believe it wouldn't be a ghost device issue.

Well, if you've tried many other software besides ImgBurn, then the problem is either the disc itself or the drive you've been trying to read it in.

I've no personal experience with Arita recordable discs, but my memory of past posts on the board is that they were cheap quality media. It probably has nothing to do with rot as it probably started going bad long before disc rot would have been factored in. Cheaper media just gets parts where it can't be read anymore over time. Sometimes, the entire disc is not recognized by a drive. I began a project to convert all my non MCC and TY discs, which are the quality stuff, to TY discs. I came across two MXL GR03 DVD's recorded in like 2003. One was fully readable, but one had data on it that couldn't be read, yet the rest could. I've learned a few things. For instance, Ritek DVD-R have lasted almost 19 years. Lead Data DVD-R as well, but VIVASTAR and those MXL GR03 had read issues after roughly the same amount of time.

One thing that may or may not work. Copy all the installer files and folders from the DVD's/from the ISO's to a single folder somewhere else. Do not choose to replace existing files. Then try running the install/setup executable from this copied to folder. As I said, this may or may not work. If that doesn't work, another thing to try is copying the ISO's of these DVD's (You may have to make those yourself.) to a temporary location. When the installer asks to insert Disc 2, etc. mount the ISO natively as a virtual drive in File Explorer. This is usually done by just double clicking the ISO, unless ISO is assigned to something else. Then, when you're asked to insert Disk 2, etc., just point the installer to the virtual drive. You can tell the drive letter by checking in File Explorer for new disks. Alternatively, you could install a virtual drive software like Virtual CloneDrive, create 3 virtual drives, and mount all 3 ISO's copied somewhere else as their own individual virtual drive. Then, when the installer asks you to insert Disc 2, etc. just point the installer to the virtual drive for Disc 2, etc.

Like I said, it may not work. Your drive appears to be an OEM like mine, so you'd need to find a firmware update from the site that made it. Which is apparently this Archgon entity. The bottom line, though, is generally, for whatever reason, very few companies ever release firmware updates for external drives, even when the actual drive inside the enclosure is just one that a firmware update is available for when used internally or put in an external enclosure. My guess is they do this to force people to buy new ones all the time when the firmware is updated, even though firmware updates SHOULD be part of the general manufacturer maintenance of the device. The only other thing is to try a different external burner, preferably not a slim model one. The USB LG I noted is a half height external model. What I use is the LG WH16NS60 half height internal model and put it in a VanTech USB enclosure. However, with VanTech you have to thoroughly test it because it's Chinese made and you get 50/50 junk or usable. If you're going to use a BD burner, you must use a USB 3.0 enclosure. USB 2.x won't be fast enough. And as far as I know, there are only 2 USB 3.0 enclosures. The VanTech I already mentioned and the Other World Computing model. However, the OWC one has a fatal flaw. If you power off the device or it loses contact due to erroring out, you MUST restart Windows before it will recognize the drive is connected again. Powering it off and on won't do the trick and neither will disconnecting and reconnecting the USB cable. OWC's is easier to put drives into than the VanTech, though. I went with the VanTech because I wanted something I didn't always have to restart Windows to get recognized.

Your drive is actually an LG. Although it may say Archgon MD-8107S-U3YC-UHD on the box, the log says: Destination Device: [0:0:0] HL-DT-ST BD-RE BU40N 1.01 (D:) (USB) BUT, here's the thing. The BU40N is an INTERNAL drive. So, it sounds like someone put this in an enclosure and called it something else. The enclosure may be the problem. I've never heard of Archgon, but I have one of these slim model drives in my PC and it's burned Verbatim-IM BD-R fine. So, I'd see about trying something else other than that set up you have. However, you may have luck with a firmware update. Your log line says your drive is running 1.01 firmware, but there's a firmware update for 1.04 available. Updated firmware might include better compatibility with that type of BD-R. Try downloading and running this: https://gscs-b2c.lge.com/downloadFile?fileId=iGVK72xmUqe4fl1VwKpw If the firmware update doesn't do the trick, try a half-height USB drive from LG like the BE16NU50. Slim models are generally junk, however, the BU40N has proven to be decent in the tests I threw at in my both units I've had. Although the 2nd one I have is relatively useless because after a few months, the cap that holds discs in the drive keeps popping off. The firmware may not update. For instance, my BU40N is an OEM from HP, which, though it's called a BU40N, it's got different firmware made especially for HP by LG. So, I can't update to 1.04 because my current firmware is some screwy revision number called A102-01. Yours appears to be an OEM, too, so the firmware update may not work. Or it may; who knows?

I can remember when it was a light year leap to have 100 MB "floppies" when the Zip drive came out. I had one in 1996 and it seemed like such a vast amount of removable storage. And it was 25 years ago.

582 MB! HA! The HD in my first x86 PC in 1992 was a whopping 40 MB!

There are far better tools for doing file comparisons than COMP. But, I recommended COMP because it's free and comes with Windows. It's a leftover from MS-DOS from like 30 years ago.

I thought I'd start a list of Disc ID's that are "known good" and "known bad." Meaning, still readable after several years, including up to nearly 20 years from when they were recorded. KNOWN GOOD DISC MID'S (Manufacturer ID) The definition of a known good Manufacturer ID is a disc that burned successfully, passed Verify, and is still readable fully after at least a few years. BeAll G00001 (Sample recorded nearly 18 years ago. I had expected this sample to be only partially readable. My memory was BeAll was a maker of bad discs. This sample, though, showed otherwise.) Hitachi Maxell MCC-X (No longer writes properly on the LG WH16NS60. CMC/Verbatim apparently changed the formula for the dye on this disc and it's no longer compatible with that drive.) MCC 03RG20 (No longer writes properly on the LG WH16NS60. CMC/Verbatim apparently changed the formula for the dye on this disc and it's no longer compatible with that drive.) MKM-X (Recorded 12 years ago. Still readable.) MXL RG01 (Recorded 18 years and 2 days ago to be precise. 4 18 year old samples still readable, even though out of 2 MXL RG03 discs from 18 years ago, one was fully readable and one was only partially readable. So, take these results as you will.) LD (Probably short for Lead Data. Nearly 18 year old sample still reads.) LEAD-X/LEAD DATA-X (Recorded over 18 years ago. Still readable.) Lead Data (19 samples recorded over 18 years ago. Still readable.) OPTODISC-X OPTODISC (4 samples recorded over 18 years ago. All still readable. With a caveat. After I stopped counting, came across 2 such discs that were not still fully readable after 18 years. So, take these results as you will. 4/6 of them were still good, but is that good enough? However, Optodisc is no longer a player in the field, so it doesn't matter. But, if you've got older OPTODISC's out there that are still fully readable, I HIGHLY recommend you copy them to quality discs ASAP.) OPTODISCK001 (Recorded 18 years and 1 day ago to be precise. 3 recorded samples still readable after 18 years.) RICOH-X RICOHJPN-R00-01 (Recorded over 18 years ago. 3 samples still readable.) RICOHJPN-W21-01 RITEK-X (Recorded nearly 19 years ago. Still readable. Does NOT apply to DVD+R DL. Ritek DVD+R DL tends to be unreadable after only a year.) RITEK-008-00 RITEKG03 (28 sample discs recorded over 18 years ago. All still readable. Known to cause playback skips and pops on the original 2000 first release fat model Playstation 2 on the 2011/2012 2nd model fat Playstation 3.) RITEKG04 (3 sample discs recorded 18 years ago. Still readable. Known to cause playback skips and pops on the original 2000 first release fat model Playstation 2 on the 2011/2012 2nd model fat Playstation 3.) SONY (1 nearly 18 year old sample still readable.) SONY04D1 (6 16 year old recorded samples. Still readable. A 5th sample, date burned unknown, is still readable.) SONY08D1 (6 18 year old recorded samples. Still readable.) TAIYOYUDEN (Recorded over 18 years ago. Still readable.) TDKG02000000 (1 12 days from being 18 years recorded sample that reads fine. 2 samples that read fine.) TYG0X VERBAT-IM-X KNOWN BAD DISC MID'S (Manufacturer ID) The definition of a known bad Manufacturer ID is a disc that either failed to burn successfully, failed Verify, or is not readable or partially unreadable after at least a few years. CMC-X MXL GR03 (Had 2 nearly 18 year old discs. One was fully readable but one was only partially readable. So, I'm putting it down under "bad" due to the partial failure.) PRINCO (I thought Princo was a known bad manufacturer, but I had a 12 days from being 18 years recorded sample that reads fine. Then, I found a sample that when I recorded it back when, shortly afterwards, it became unreadable according to my notes on it. 14 samples, 4 over 18 years old, have read fine thus far. So, I've marked this as a "bad" manufacturer because of the initial burn problem, but take these results as you will as more samples than not were still readable after 18 years.) VANGUARD-X VANGUARD (Completely undetectable after 1 year. No contents visible.) VIVASTAR (4 samples either completely undetectable or partially unreadable after over 15 years. No contents visible for some. ImgBurn detects some recorded discs as "Disc Is Empty.")

I know pretty much nothing about MD5's, so I can't say. I don't think I've ever used a single hash file before in my life. I have ImgBurn set to generate them, but I've never used them before.