dbminter

Your drive is actually an LG. Although it may say Archgon MD-8107S-U3YC-UHD on the box, the log says: Destination Device: [0:0:0] HL-DT-ST BD-RE BU40N 1.01 (D:) (USB) BUT, here's the thing. The BU40N is an INTERNAL drive. So, it sounds like someone put this in an enclosure and called it something else. The enclosure may be the problem. I've never heard of Archgon, but I have one of these slim model drives in my PC and it's burned Verbatim-IM BD-R fine. So, I'd see about trying something else other than that set up you have. However, you may have luck with a firmware update. Your log line says your drive is running 1.01 firmware, but there's a firmware update for 1.04 available. Updated firmware might include better compatibility with that type of BD-R. Try downloading and running this: https://gscs-b2c.lge.com/downloadFile?fileId=iGVK72xmUqe4fl1VwKpw If the firmware update doesn't do the trick, try a half-height USB drive from LG like the BE16NU50. Slim models are generally junk, however, the BU40N has proven to be decent in the tests I threw at in my both units I've had. Although the 2nd one I have is relatively useless because after a few months, the cap that holds discs in the drive keeps popping off. The firmware may not update. For instance, my BU40N is an OEM from HP, which, though it's called a BU40N, it's got different firmware made especially for HP by LG. So, I can't update to 1.04 because my current firmware is some screwy revision number called A102-01. Yours appears to be an OEM, too, so the firmware update may not work. Or it may; who knows?

I can remember when it was a light year leap to have 100 MB "floppies" when the Zip drive came out. I had one in 1996 and it seemed like such a vast amount of removable storage. And it was 25 years ago.

582 MB! HA! The HD in my first x86 PC in 1992 was a whopping 40 MB!

There are far better tools for doing file comparisons than COMP. But, I recommended COMP because it's free and comes with Windows. It's a leftover from MS-DOS from like 30 years ago.

I thought I'd start a list of Disc ID's that are "known good" and "known bad." Meaning, still readable after several years, including up to nearly 20 years from when they were recorded. KNOWN GOOD DISC MID'S (Manufacturer ID) The definition of a known good Manufacturer ID is a disc that burned successfully, passed Verify, and is still readable fully after at least a few years. BeAll G00001 (Sample recorded nearly 18 years ago. I had expected this sample to be only partially readable. My memory was BeAll was a maker of bad discs. This sample, though, showed otherwise.) Hitachi Maxell MCC-X (No longer writes properly on the LG WH16NS60. CMC/Verbatim apparently changed the formula for the dye on this disc and it's no longer compatible with that drive.) MCC 03RG20 (No longer writes properly on the LG WH16NS60. CMC/Verbatim apparently changed the formula for the dye on this disc and it's no longer compatible with that drive.) MKM-X (Recorded 12 years ago. Still readable.) MXL RG01 (Recorded 18 years and 2 days ago to be precise. 4 18 year old samples still readable, even though out of 2 MXL RG03 discs from 18 years ago, one was fully readable and one was only partially readable. So, take these results as you will.) LD (Probably short for Lead Data. Nearly 18 year old sample still reads.) LEAD-X/LEAD DATA-X (Recorded over 18 years ago. Still readable.) Lead Data (19 samples recorded over 18 years ago. Still readable.) OPTODISC-X OPTODISC (4 samples recorded over 18 years ago. All still readable. With a caveat. After I stopped counting, came across 2 such discs that were not still fully readable after 18 years. So, take these results as you will. 4/6 of them were still good, but is that good enough? However, Optodisc is no longer a player in the field, so it doesn't matter. But, if you've got older OPTODISC's out there that are still fully readable, I HIGHLY recommend you copy them to quality discs ASAP.) OPTODISCK001 (Recorded 18 years and 1 day ago to be precise. 3 recorded samples still readable after 18 years.) RICOH-X RICOHJPN-R00-01 (Recorded over 18 years ago. 3 samples still readable.) RICOHJPN-W21-01 RITEK-X (Recorded nearly 19 years ago. Still readable. Does NOT apply to DVD+R DL. Ritek DVD+R DL tends to be unreadable after only a year.) RITEK-008-00 RITEKG03 (28 sample discs recorded over 18 years ago. All still readable. Known to cause playback skips and pops on the original 2000 first release fat model Playstation 2 on the 2011/2012 2nd model fat Playstation 3.) RITEKG04 (3 sample discs recorded 18 years ago. Still readable. Known to cause playback skips and pops on the original 2000 first release fat model Playstation 2 on the 2011/2012 2nd model fat Playstation 3.) SONY (1 nearly 18 year old sample still readable.) SONY04D1 (6 16 year old recorded samples. Still readable. A 5th sample, date burned unknown, is still readable.) SONY08D1 (6 18 year old recorded samples. Still readable.) TAIYOYUDEN (Recorded over 18 years ago. Still readable.) TDKG02000000 (1 12 days from being 18 years recorded sample that reads fine. 2 samples that read fine.) TYG0X VERBAT-IM-X KNOWN BAD DISC MID'S (Manufacturer ID) The definition of a known bad Manufacturer ID is a disc that either failed to burn successfully, failed Verify, or is not readable or partially unreadable after at least a few years. CMC-X MXL GR03 (Had 2 nearly 18 year old discs. One was fully readable but one was only partially readable. So, I'm putting it down under "bad" due to the partial failure.) PRINCO (I thought Princo was a known bad manufacturer, but I had a 12 days from being 18 years recorded sample that reads fine. Then, I found a sample that when I recorded it back when, shortly afterwards, it became unreadable according to my notes on it. 14 samples, 4 over 18 years old, have read fine thus far. So, I've marked this as a "bad" manufacturer because of the initial burn problem, but take these results as you will as more samples than not were still readable after 18 years.) VANGUARD-X VANGUARD (Completely undetectable after 1 year. No contents visible.) VIVASTAR (4 samples either completely undetectable or partially unreadable after over 15 years. No contents visible for some. ImgBurn detects some recorded discs as "Disc Is Empty.")

I know pretty much nothing about MD5's, so I can't say. I don't think I've ever used a single hash file before in my life. I have ImgBurn set to generate them, but I've never used them before.

If you're really curious, you could always open a Command Prompt and use the COMP command to compare one ISO against the other to see if the contents are exactly the same. Or, to save some time, since that will take a bit to run that COMP, you could use Properties in File Explorer for each ISO and check their file sizes against each other.

I just got a cake stack of 100 of those CMCPro DVD-R off of Amazon.com. They do say Disc ID: TYG03 and that was actually printed on the label. For once, an optical disc manufacturer actually said who made them on the package! I'm burning my first one right now, but they should be okay. The burn just now completed as I type and the Verify has started. Verify completed. DVDShrink read of a Panasonic DVD Video recorder disc that I copied from its 18 year old source disc to one of these CMCPro discs also passed. So, unless there's some kind of problem I'm not expecting with playback, like the PS3 not recognizing inserted media or playing back with skips, pops, hisses, or pauses, these discs should be as good as the TYG03 TY's I've been getting off of Amazon.com as well.

I finally have some empirical evidence of just how long a quality DVD-R will last. I came across a PrimeDisc DVD-R I recorded on 2002-07-11. The MID is RITEKG03. This disc was still readable, a single VIDEO_TS from a Panasonic DVD Video recorder, into a new Build job ISO and creating. The disc passed a read of its contents in DVDShrink as well. So, a good 18 to 19 years has passed thus far. It's not too far fetched to say a quality DVD-R will last 20 years at least. And PrimeDisc wasn't exactly a household name. Although they apparently made a quality disc 18 plus years ago, farming out to Ritek. Ritek is a known quantity and I've found their discs are good 2nd tier quality material, although in places outside of North America, Ritek media seems to be pretty bad. So, it appears to be a quality disc, and a known quality manufacturer like Taiyo Yuden or Mitsubishi would probably last just as long and, most likely, longer.

Probably the fault of the Ritek disc you used. They're known to be problematic for some drives. I'm surprised you had better luck with an LG because my experience has been LG DVD drives won't read in discs other drives do. What I'd do at this point is put this disc in a CD player and try to play Track 12 all the way through. If the CD player won't play the track, then the disc is probably unreadable at that point and there's nothing you can do.

I've got one of these: https://www.officedepot.com/a/products/460958/Verbatim-External-Slimline-CD-And-DVD/ It is a slim line, but it seems to be better than most slim drives. I've not used them to test reading PS CD's, though. My main burner is a half height BD drive I put in an external enclosure. The BD drive is an LG WH16NS60 and the enclosure is a VanTech USB 3.0, since BD needs that. You can probably get by with a USB 2.x enclosure. However, it's been like a decade since I last bought an internal DVD drive, so I don't know what's good in that field or not.

Sounds like you've got a more serious problem in your wall outlet.

Could be the disc has gone bad over the years. Best let LUK see if he can glean anything from reading the debug logs provided. I don't know how the Playstation Classic works. I don't know what it imports, like what file types. ISO?

And it may be that ImgBurn simply can't image that PS disc. I have one in my collection, Mega Man 8, that ImgBurn simply can't image. I had to use Alcohol 120%, which I believe there was a free version, to image that particular game.

If you see the Search field in the upper right corner of the board, you'll see a magnifying glass; click on it and choose More Options, choose Content titles only under Find results in. Then do a search for the word semaphore. There are 2 pages of topics that have semaphore in their Titles. This will help narrow down the search. However, I haven't actually looked at the results, so there may not be much useful info there. There are probably things like try changing your USB cable or use a different USB port, which you're welcome to try, but most likely won't fix the issue. The underlying cause is a hardware one: a conflict between the ALI USB bridge in the USB burner and the USB controller on the motherboard in your PC. The only solution that has ever worked for me was to get a new burner.

BTW, that Sabrent link was for hard drive enclosures. It's for hard drives and probably won't fit an external slim model optical drive.

I've actually only ever bought one slim model drive that did not come new with a PC. It was a USB model sold by Verbatim and it did not say it was slim on the box. You can tell a slim model because they're slim. Slim model drives are about 2.625 inches thick; though they're called half height drives, they actually take put a "full" size bay in a PC case. Half height models are 5.25" thick. I've only ever used this USB model for reading, with a few write tests. So, I can't say how well that drive I got at Office Depot might do for writing as I haven't performed enough or long term tests. I've never actually bought a USB 2.x enclosure. All enclosures I've had were 3.0, necessary for the BD burners I was putting in them. You'll get by cheaper with a USB 2.x enclosure versus a 3.0, though, so if you don't necessarily need 3.0 for a 3.0 device, you can get by with a 2.x. However, since I've never actually bought a 2.x enclosure, I can't recommend X won't give you grief. Because the problem lies with the ALI USB bridge in the external drive and the USB controller on your motherboard. Without knowing the make/model of both in the devices you have or want to try, I can't guarantee anything will work. Those purple Verbatim do say AZO so they are the better quality media. However, those are DVD+R and the ones you were using were DVD-R. If that doesn't matter to you, then it doesn't make too much difference. DVD-R has better compatibility with older DVD players and playback devices and are slightly larger. DVD+R has a shorter WriteIn lead time, so the burning is a bit faster. I prefer DVD-R for its better compatibility and slightly larger size. Sabrent makes good stuff. They made the USB 2.x and 3.0 external HDD connections I've used in the past. I still have the 3.0 one just in case I ever need to access a spare mechanical HDD I have. Again, though, I've never used a USB 2.x enclosure or one from Sabrent. The USB 3.0 enclosures I've used in the past are from Other World Computing and VanTech; each have their own problems. The OWC one is easier to put drives in and out of, but, on 3 Dell's I've used them on, they have a major flaw. If the drive ever errors out or you power it off, after it's been powered back on, Windows will fail to recognize the drive is connected until Windows is restarted. The problems with VanTech's enclosure is they're a bit more difficult to swap drives into and out of. Plus, they're Chinese made, so the quality is iffy. The first one I received was utter junk. The 2nd one I tried was great. The 3rd one was slightly off balance. Not enough to affect reading or writing. but when you put discs in the tray with the enclosure on its side, it wobbles a bit. So, it's up to you what you want to go for. You could try a USB 3.0 if you're willing to pay for something you don't really need, but it will work with USB 2.x cables and connections. I've only ever put Blu-Ray burners in these USB 3.0 enclosures so I can't say how well they work for DVD burners.

Those orange ones in the link you posted say Life Series on them, so, yes, they're the CMC junk. You'd have to provide a link to these purple ones you described as I don't know what that necessarily means. As long as it doesn't say Life Series on it and says DataLife Plus or AZO, you're fine. It will definitely change your experience. You'll have fewer chances for failures if you switch away from CMC. However, with semaphore timeout issues and the like, better media most likely won't help in a case like that. It MAY as the bad media may be causing semaphore timeout issues attempting to burn, but I can't say for certain switching to the good media will help. You'll be better off in the long run, though, with better quality media. They'll last longer than CMC media and have a better chance of playing with other drives and standalone players. I'd recommend giving the better media a shot, at least. If it does solve the semaphore timeout issue, getting better quality media is definitely a cheaper solution than getting a whole other drive, which may also have a semaphore timeout problem. And, in the long run, you're better off using the higher quality media, over all.

Anyway, I now see this isn't an ImgBurn issue as I had forgotten it also affected other applications like Macrium Reflect and the screen saver. So, I'm sorry for taking up space here with this. Unless someone can think of something else, I guess we can consider this issue closed.

That won't work. I didn't enable the screen saver on my last test. I just locked Windows, turned off the monitor, turned it back on, and logged back into Windows. The ImgBurn Log window had moved again without the screen saver coming into play at all. But, if I did let the screen saver activate, the problem would persist because it persisted without the screen saver activating.

Those Verbatim discs you got from Best Buy were the Life Series CMC junk. I forgot to mention you can't find the good Verbatim in brick and mortar stores; you can only find them online. Officedepot.com and Amazon.com have them.

A few things of note: 1.) don't use the cheap CMC MAG discs. They are the worst out there and cause 50% of the problems here. Try Verbatim DataLife Plus/AZO. Do NOT get the Life Series Verbatim you find in brick and mortar stores. They will be CMC. Although, I don't THINK this will solve your problem, a.) it might and b.) you should avoid the CMC junk to begin with. 2.) your drive is a slim model burner. Slim models are generally junk. Try getting a half height drive and putting it in a USB enclosure. 3.) the semaphore timeout issue is generally a problem with the USB bridge in your USB drive conflicting with the USB controller on your PC's motherboard. This is what I think is generally causing your problems. Particularly the issue about the drive not being connected. The only solution is to replace the USB burner, replace the USB bridge in the USB burner, or replace the USB controller on your mobo. It's generally easier just to replace entire USB burner than try the other options. Cheaper, too.

Nope, didn't work! I knew it wouldn't.

Yes, I had dismissed the resolution changing because I thought it wasn't happening. I had forgotten about the screen saver changing size. But your link may just do the trick. I will try it out. I'm quite adept at following technological instructions.

Oh, one other data point. When I lock Windows, eventually, the screen saver activates. When I power back on the monitor and the screen saver is activated, the "screen" has shrunk to smaller sized square on the left side of the screen, with black areas under it and on the right side.