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Posts posted by chewy

  1. it's not looking good here


    1. drives out of warranty???? if not return it

    2. oem/crossbrand to start with, not good

    3. not seeing verbatim and the drive is fairly modern


    post a filter driver load order, I would probably clean house and only leave imapi and redbook




    if that doesn't help then try the firmware, nothing to lose at that point, the drive is probably toast



    But double check as like everyone else I make mistakes


    Donta is human? Next you all will tell me there's no Santa Claus.

  2. well your firmware is using a generic write strategy to burn the disks with, if it was working before it should still work, so

    chances are your burner is going out, of course when it worked before it may have just barely worked


    rather than waste too much more time on such an old burner I would buy a new one, after having to replace over 100 dvd's that I burned with old burners and second class media, I am biased against them, a lot were memorex and only a couple of years old, if that


    My 16x LG burner was a later model(4163B) than yours and it's almost 2 1/2 years old


    here in PTG


    PTG Pietersburg, South Africa ???


    ty media there might be that's branded and expensive I am sure

  3. the dye/mid code may be an important factor, but quality control is just as important or even more so


    look at the wide variance of pie/pif results from batch to batch of the same media, I have had verbatim and TY both that were substandard, but other batches that were near perfect


    TY's original tyg01/4x dvd-r's were probably some of the best blanks made, I had some ricoh dvd+r 4x, that was end of stock(2 years old when I bought it) that burned with more consistency than newer batches of ty or verbatim, I seriously doubt it was the die, but the manufacturing process


    Even the 4x ricoh burned better than my latest batches of verbatim, even at the same speeds(8x and 12x)


    A few companies claim they use TY die and equiptment(presses) to manufacture disks outside of japan(hongkong for example)

    these disks are pure crap, even if they were using the real dye, they can't get a good spread of it


    We see a wide variance from verbatim, where the dye/mid codes are the same as the original plant used in singapore,

    quality is all over the board.


    Prodisc makes some verbatims in tawain, but they have a line of their own dye/disks that can and often does exceed the mcc quality.


    Damn can of worms

  4. Burning single layer dvd's is a hard job, takes several correct elements, burning dual layer dvd's is that much harder, technically


    Just a few burners do it well, and they are mostly newer ones, it only makes sense that as a drive ages it would develope dl problems first, on the average.


    where's the last imgburn log?


    or at least put a blank in and let's see which firmware and which mid you are using

  5. a gross oversimplification


    dye is related to the mid code of the blank, for genuine disks, your drive's firmware has a "strategy" to burn that dye according to the mid code which identifies it


    some brands of disks use several mid codes/dyes, some are better than others


    for example some generic brands(house brands) will have several different manufacturers, you have to use clues like where the media was made, type and size of package, even the color and shape of the foam spacer


    disks made in japan are usually the best, made in tawain can be good or bad, made in china or hong kong are usually the worst, including ones with good mid codes(fake or clone)




    quite a variation of mid codes

  6. nearing the end of its life


    CPU Properties:

    CPU Type AMD Athlon 64 3500+

    CPU Alias Venice S939

    CPU Stepping DH-E3

    CPUID CPU Name AMD Athlon 64 Processor 3000+

    CPUID Revision 00020FF0h


    CPU Speed:

    CPU Clock 2249.88 MHz

    CPU Multiplier 9.0x

    CPU FSB 249.99 MHz (original: 200 MHz, overclock: 25%)

    Memory Bus 249.99 MHz


    I won't tell my computer that


    Voltage Values:

    CPU Core 1.42 V

    +3.3 V 3.30 V

    +5 V 5.11 V

    +12 V 12.16 V


    my old thermaltake keeps plugging away also




    under computer sensor you can get some voltage readings but they only furnish a rough guide

  7. if I remember right, that post LuK linked to over at cdfreaks is one of the firmware writters from liteon and that firmware linked is a test firmware intended to fix problems


    welcome to the beta tester world


    go for it

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