mmalves

Does it play on a standalone DVD player?

Isn't there a program that takes the PS1 game disc image as is and converts to the format needed for the PSP? I think I've heard about one or two that can do that, never looked deeper as I don't have anything newer than a fatty PS2

Not sure about pendrives as Windows doesn't like to partition them, but if you have an USB hard disk you can make a small partition on it, format it as bootable FAT16 (Windows calls it just FAT) and you'll be able to boot and read files from it

Is that AVI/other video files? If so you need to convert before burning, or it won't play on any DVD player. You can do that by using DVD Flick and similar programs

For the drive to be recognized in DOS mode you need to load the ATAPI.SYS driver and the MSCDEX.EXE extension. To do this you'll need to write/change files on the floppy disc image.

It's not a bug: ImgBurn doesn't support multi-session in Build mode. Your keyboard is bugged, you should fix it

For your drive try the BenQ tab of the Book Type dialog

Use the Verify mode to check the burned DVD against the source ISO image (this is needed to make sure the disc was properly burned).

It is possible that it was a bad disc, but if you happen to start getting bad burns more often than usual then you know the burner might be wearing out.

Are your Verbatim blanks made in Singapore or India? The ones made in India have lower success rate due to lower quality dye. Try burning one at 4x to see if it works, or you'll need a new burner.

Try burning at the other available speeds to see if works. If it doesn't, get Verbatim or Taiyo Yuden blanks and it should work fine

Save the ISO image to another HD (preferably one on another channel/cable) than the one which holds the source files. Defragment your HDs. Disable antivirus/antimalware/anti-etc.

Disable/uninstall your antivirus program and try again. Some of them try to cache large files to scan and end up using all the RAM.

Please post the log of the failed burn (it'll have 'Operation Started!' lines and a lot more info that we can use).

Upgrade to the latest firmware available for your burner 1.07 and use Verbatim DVD+R DL 2.4x (MKM-001-00 dye) Made in Singapore blanks for best results. Look at the pinned threads in this support forum and you'll see that the program has no control over the burn quality: that's down to the burner/firmware/media combination

Update to the latest firmware 1.24 and try again. This should at least help with the Power Calibration error. In the BIOS set it to IDE mode (AHCI should also work but it's only needed for hot-swapping SATA devices).

Nope, that's not possible. If you're worried you may lose the arrangement of the original files, copy them to a temporary folder, arrange them as you want, burn, then delete the temp folder

The drive couldn't write to that crappy media. You may want to try burning at 4x or 2x but you'd have a lot better results with Verbatim or Taiyo Yuden blanks

It seems that you Samsung player doesn't like the Ritek dye DVD+RWs you're using. Try with Verbatim DVD+RW discs and it should work fine As for the booktype, having it set to DVD-ROM increases compatibility with standalone players so it shouldn't be a problem.

Just to clarify... You don't need driver(s) for using a burner. I think he meant to say "look for the latest firmware available for your burner". Don't get the two terms confused. The .dvd file should tell ImgBurn where to place the layerbreak, and if it didn't work for you before then the .dvd file was incomplete/incorrectly made. It's better to leave the layerbreak option in Calculate Optimal or you're risking to have a wrong layerbreak when you burn anything else than a xbox360 game. Also notice that when you load an image ImgBurn shows the layerbreak position in the Sectors field of the image information box, so you should always keep an eye on it

You could search Google to find out what that means but it won't help with your burning problem

A cleaning disc could help, as laptop burners' lenses are exposed every time the tray is pulled out. Even though you've selected 1x in ImgBurn and that command is sent to the burner, the burner's firmware determines which speed is used, which is usually the closest speed available to the one you've chosen. If we're talking about +R media the slowest speed is 2.4x, so try at 4x to see if works. As for working before, brand names don't manufacture the discs themselves: they outsource to other companies and, as such, the dye used to manufacture the disc may be different from one batch to another. We recommend using only Verbatim and Taiyo Yuden blanks because they manufacture their own discs and the quality is consistently high with them.

Open the .dvd file with Notepad and check if the filename in there matches the file on your hard disk.

From what I know there's no DVD+RW DL available to sell, nor any burner that actually supports it. Are you sure about the discs you have? Anyway, if ImgBurn is asking which type of rewritable media is in the burner that's because the burner didn't properly recognize the disc (which is a bad thing), or the disc isn't rewritable at all.

Changing to ASPI wouldn't help as that's not the problem. From what we can see, the drive is unable to write to the media you're using (hence it gives an error that ImgBurn shows to the user) and since the burn process relies on the burner/firmware/media combination, that's the things we can change to get better burns. Laptop drives are known to be picky about the media they like, so that's why using high quality media is important. Also, the slowest burn speed may not give the best burn quality (in your case it doesn't even burn) so that's why we recommend trying other speeds.