LIGHTNING UK!

It means what it says. In testing, I found the best 'drive' settings for the LiteOn drives when overburning Verbatim 8x (MKM-003-00) DVD+R DL discs are FHT: On, OHT: Off, Overspeed: Off and SmartBurn: On. So you can either stick with your current settings or have the program change the setting on the drive and turn OHT off.

What other discs have you tried? Buy some decent verbatim / Taiyo Yuden ones.

Drop the write speed down to 8x and/or buy some better discs.

Concerned... no. Curious... perhaps

Most 'big title' games of a similar age would be. There used to be a few program that would tell you what a disc is protected by (protection scanners), maybe some are still floating around the Internet and being updated?

That's typical of a copy protected (by SafeDisc/SecuROM) disc. ImgBurn can't work with those I'm afraid.

That probably means the drivers are blocking the command that's normally used to query / set the booktype.

There will be some loss. Try and trim / compress what you're burning a little bit.

You can't do anything, that's the size of the disc as the drive is reporting it.

Not really, no. It's timing out after 20 seconds when it shouldn't be. Lots of optical drive related operations take longer than 20 seconds to finish processing.

The zeroing stage is just another 'write' operation really. I actually found it weird that you'd get errors during zeroing and then not get them during the actual write! Yes, maybe things will improve the more you try to burn the discs. As you've had problems with a large percentage of the discs you purchased, I don't think it's really worth trying more discs.

I don't understand what you're trying to achieve here. You'll never get the layerbreak in the correct place with your hardware and the program will always report the error that your drive returns when it tries to set it to something it can't do. This is nothing to do with the version of ImgBurn, it's a hardware limitation. The stuff you read about downgrading is from people that have no clue what's actually going on behind the scenes. The layerbreak setting should be left on calculate optimal so it's read from the .dvd file.

Try installing the latest intel rapid storage technology drivers.

Make the image with EAC and then burn that image with ImgBurn. It'll query the online database to fill out the disc info that then gets written to the CUE file and eventually ends up bring used for CD-TEXT when you come to burn it.

Right click the drive selection box and select 'family tree'. Close the prompt that comes up and then copy + paste everything from the log window please.

The disc / manufacturer ID. It's listed in the box on the right when you're about to burn the disc.

Yeah, you shouldn't really be saving large ISO files to an ssd - or at least not doing it frequently. It doesn't matter where you install ImgBurn. Once it's been loaded and is in memory, that's it. It won't get faster by being on an ssd.

No, not media... You need a drive that supports the burnermax stuff if you want the layerbreak in the correct place and to be able to burn the complete image.

When using the wrong hardware, that error is to be expected.

Are your verbatim discs the same mid as the memorex ones? Your log only shows 'CMC' discs being burnt Have you tried dropping the write speed down to 8x?

As you've already tried cleaning it and have tried a couple of different MIDs, yes, I'd go for a new drive.

The status bar messages are different to the log messages, that's why I asked what the message in the status bar was. As it's fine in safe mode, it must be driver related and something else you've installed is causing the problem. Have a look at the filter drivers feature in the tools menu and see if any are listed.

That's correct, it's not suitable. An MDS with no original layerbreak position specified within it is no different to a plain old ISO.

You'd be better off having DVDFab output a VIDEO_TS folder and burn that in Build mode so you can pick the layer break position properly.

The drive can't read it, so either it's copy protected or the disc is faulty. Oh and 'authentic' discs aren't usually DVD-Rs!