dbminter

Um, if I'm understanding what the question may be here, you're asking does ImgBurn return things like CRC errors if it cannot read data from bad sectors on a source device? ImgBurn should return an error that it cannot read the source file if the source file is on a bad sector on the source device. You should generally get a Cyclic Redundancy Check (CRC) error.

Is it required or optional for BD-R? I saw it on my most recent BD-R burn and it made me curious as to what exactly it did.

What exactly does Reserving Track do? Other than reserve track, obviously. I guess the better question is why is it necessary to reserve the track? Thanks!

Some people do have compatibility problems with Ritek discs on their devices. They're not as bad as CMC, though, so that isn't as bad a concern here. If you were able to copy the contents successfully from the burned disc and some of those files opened correctly, a successful Read of this disc to a new image file should be a good indication that the disc is okay. Not 100% guaranteed, though.

When you say they're readable on 2 PC's, what exactly did you do to test their readability? Did you attempt to use ImgBurn to Read this burned CD-R back to an image file? If the Read job completes okay, the discs are probably all right. However, if they're cheap media, like CMC discs, and the info LUK asked you to post will most likely tell who made the CD-R, some people's players may not read them at all or have problems playing them back at some point.

Wait, you've been connecting this BD drive by USB 2.x? Those cables have white ends which indicates USB 2.x connections. It shouldn't even be working right at all on either PC if you do that. Try not using that cable at all but a dedicated USB 3.0 cable on a USB 3.0 port on the PC where the burns are failing. See if that helps. Don't get the WH16NS40 if you plan on burning BD-R DL or BD-RE DL. It absolutely will fail 90% of the time, regardless of media and the drive's claims it can burn double layer BD discs. It cannot do it properly. I know this from experience with multiple copies of the NS40 over years of use. That's why I got the NS60. It can. I don't care for UHD either, but that's now why I got it.

Well, there's no guarantee, but SATA is a separate connection methodology on the mobo versus the USB. So, you may have better luck connecting directly by SATA. It has other advantages, too. For instance, if you have a communication failure over USB for different reasons, the drive may simply just stop doing anything. SATA connected drives will generally return some kind of error. I also was wondering what you were talking about when you said a Y cable. That must be one end for connecting by USB 2.x and the other by USB 3.0? What I do is buy a half height, e.g. internal, 5.25" BD drive and put it in an external USB enclosure. I use the LG WH16NS60 BD drive and the VanTec USB 3.0 enclosure for my purposes.

If it's a BD drive, do not connect to USB 2.x. USB 2.x does not have the necessary speed to keep up with communicating to a BD drive and will, almost always, fail to burn if you connect a BD drive by USB 2.x. Trying to replace the drive with something other than the same manufacturer and model might be the only solution. Since the drive works on one PC but not on the other, there is something "wrong" on the PC where it doesn't work. Now, this may be as simple as there is a conflict between the USB bridge inside your BD drive and the USB controller on your mobo. If that's the case, the only solution is to replace the bridge, the controller on the mobo, or the drive. Replacing the drive is far easier and cheaper than replacing the USB bridge or the controller on the mobo or getting a whole new mobo, of which you're not sure it will work. You know it's not the drive or cable as the BD drive works on one computer but not the other. So, whichever device it's failing on is the culprit. Now, whether that's down to a hardware error or a software error from some kind of corruption in Windows configuration or a bad driver update or corrupt driver, you could spend years trying to nail that down and get nowhere.

Also, just to rule out the possibility it's the cause, are you using the same USB cable with this drive on both the PC that works and the one that doesn't? If you're using a different USB cable on the PC that works but not on the PC that doesn't, it could be the cable. Most people don't use different cables on different devices, but I'm ruling it out here in case it is.

It is called Prefer Properly Formatted Discs.

Admittedly, it's not consistent. I once wrote a disc in ImgBurn many years ago. It sat around until I got to reusing it again. ImgBurn then said it needed a full proper format, so it apparently hadn't been fully written to before by a past version of ImgBurn. The requiring properly formatted discs maybe wasn't always present in the software? Like maybe 15 years when it first came out and this disc was initially written? Also, isn't a Windows format not really a format? For instance, an unformatted disc in ImgBurn requires a zeroing out of all sectors initially before it can be written to. I think with Windows you can just pop them in and it doesn't require a full format. Which may be why ImgBurn said the discs weren't fully erased to. I think I put in an unformatted DVD+RW and tried to use it as a giant floppy once. Expecting a full zeroing as with ImgBurn, I remember being shocked at how quickly the giant floppy formatting was. So, it seems Windows does not require full formats of optical media to be used?

If you're formatting discs in ImgBurn but then using them to write in another optical disc burning application, like say Nero, that other application is probably not properly writing to the discs, leaving them in an improper state. I do know that in the past, Nero did not properly write to rewritable media. When I put in discs Nero had burned into ImgBurn, it asked to properly format them, even though Nero had done so before.

Is there such a thing as unique DVD disc "serial numbers" on DVD+RW? I ask because, if there were, I'd be able to implement a system I wanted to try. To mark down a disc's unique ID and count the number of times I've written to that unique DVD+RW disc. I wanted to keep a spreadsheet of how may times I'd written a particular DVD+RW. It seems to me, unless there is some kind of unique serial number hardcoded onto a disc, my only option is to take a marker and write a unique ID on the top surface. However, I can't do this unless I stop using cake stacks to store discs and store them in CD cases as the ink could potentially smear/bleed onto the data surface of the disc above it, ruining it for future use. Thanks!

Yes, with all the available information, I'd say there's an issue with the USB port or controller on the PC where the burns are failing. Did you try connecting the USB BD burner to different USB ports on the PC where it's failing?

Well, it would, of course, depend on what the source drive is and what the target drive is. For instance, if the target is an SSD, it will write faster than if the source was used as the target and the source was a mechanical HDD. Plus, if you're using the same source as the target, there will be slow down in writing because the device is having to do both reading, processing, and writing all simultaneously. But, generally, yeah, you'll get faster processing if you're using different devices for the source and the target.

Good to know I haven't forgotten my batch programming after so long.

Now, I'm not entirely sure, but I think if you change the following line set DEST="%DEST%%FolderNameOnly%.ISO" to set DEST="C:\%FolderNameOnly%.ISO" then the ISO's will be saved in a root directory on C:\ So change C:\ to whatever drive and path you want to save the ISO's to. I'm not entirely sure of the logic here, but I think that's what you're looking for.

A little more explanation please as to how this BAT scenario works. When it's run, do you type in a path/folder to save the ISO's to? I'll do my best, but, it's been well like 15 years since I last did any batch programming.

What you only learn from CMC through experience is they make the worst optical discs out there. Over half the problems on this board are caused by CMC Mangetics discs and most disappear when people switch from CMC to something better. CMC now, pretty much, owns all the optical manufacturers out there. Thankfully, thus far, they haven't changed the production of higher end Verbatim and Taiyo Yuden discs. They're still the quality DVD-+R, DVD-+DL, CD-R, and BD-R, although Verbatim still makes cheaper CMC discs, particularly under their Life Series DVD+-R, CD-R, and DVD+R DL.

I know TDK made a decent brand of BD-RE DL that I used to use exclusively back when I was burning on those. To find out who made it, open ImgBurn in Write mode with the TDK BD-RE inserted in the drive. In the pane of information on the right side top, there should be an entry for MID/Manufacturer ID. Copy and paste what that line of text is. As long as it doesn't say CMC, it's not a cheaper CMC disc. As for the warning you're seeing, I've never encountered Internal Target Faulure before.

Unfortunately, CMC owns Verbatim and Verbatim only uses cheap CMC BD-RE for its brand. Verbatim is good if you get the right Verbatim, as Verbatim does farm out to CMC. And Verbatim only uses CMC for its BD-RE. You could try finding Memorex BD-RE, which is what I used to get last time I got any. Memorex uses Ritek, but some BD players like the Playstation 3 don't like playing them back.

It's either a bad disc, which I wouldn't put past CMC Magnetics, but it's most likely a firmware incompatibility between that particular brand of CMC MAG BD-RE and your drive. So, it's either try a different BD-RE brand or try a different BD burner. You could try to see if there's a firmware update. In Write mode, right click on the target drive and select the last option in the context menu, which is something like Check for firmware update. However, be aware CMC MAG makes most BD-RE out there. The other option is Ritek, which is only slightly better than CMC MAG.

Or you could do what I do. When you have a Voulme ID number you want cataloged, before finalizing that disc, make a folder in the root directory with the name using that Volume ID number. This way, you can just look at a disc's root contents in File Explorer for that Volume ID number's folder name and you've found the disc you're looking for. I always create some kind of Volume Label that uniquely identifies the contents. Then, if it's not an Audio CD, I put a folder with that Volume Label name, or a series of subfolders making up that name, in the root directory of the disc.

A Quick Erase looks like it was being performed on an unformatted disc. That could explain such an error message, yes. Make sure you're doing a Full Erase.

Not necessarily something wrong with the BD-RE; could be the drive. It may not like that particular brand of BD-RE. Particularly since it was made by CMC Magnetics, the worst optical disc manufacturer out there.