dbminter

There are 2 kinds of Verify in ImgBurn. One is just a read test to see if the data can be read from the disc. The other, the Verify against the image file contents, compares the data written to the disc against the data in the image file to make sure the data was correctly written to the disc. A write can complete successfully but it doesn't mean it's "right." DiscSpeed would, I'd think, just do the ImgBurn Verify first option, the read test. I forget if the Verify against image file is an option set by default or not. It's been a while since I used Kaspersky, and that was a bundled A/V engine from them that ZoneAlarm used. So, I don't know how to disable anything in Kaspersky, sorry. As LUK said, since you said you had written some compressed contents to the disc, the overhead of the OS reading from an admittedly slower optical medium device might be causing it, too. If the read speed from DVD is too slow for you, this MIGHT help. Install Virtual CloneDrive, read the DVD to an image file with ImgBurn, mount the image file to a virtual drive in CloneDrive, and copy the contents from the virtual drive to another location. You will be doing some extra reading and steps, but if the copying from DVD is too long, you might save some time doing it this way.

I wouldn't think so. And I wouldn't really be worried about the metallic layer, but the organic dye layer in the disc might be affected by such chemical gas. I don't know about that aspect.

Depends on what you used. If you used a standard DVD-R, I have some I first burned in 2002 that are still readable. If you used MDisc, the expected life span is like 100 years and those will have a higher life. They don't use organic dyes, which decay, like DVD-R do. I wouldn't be too worried, particularly if the discs passed a Verify against the file image contents. Slow reading is most likely not a condition of the quality of the burnt discs. If you still have the original image file you burned and didn't do a Verify against image contents, you can enable that option and use the manual Verify option to load the image file and compare contents against. If you're really concerned, you could open a Command Prompt and do a COMP of the original contents against the files on disc. However, given the slow reading in Windows you're experiencing, it would probably take more than an hour to complete.

You may want to try an external burner as that would be easier to replace than an internal one. Easier to test with, too, to see if it resolves the problem.

The fact that ImgBurn has no read speed caps but your copying from Windows/File Explorer would indicate it's something in Windows that is capping the copying read speed. Like I said, could be the A/V software scanning the files as they're written to the source destination. Or some kind of Windows configuration error, which, as I said, good luck in tracking those down.

Definitely if you've got a 10 year old DVD burner, I'd blame that. The best performance I ever got out of a drive was over 2 years before it needed replacing. I've found most drives need replacing after 7 to 9 months of use. But, I do use mine a lot.

Is the LiteOn internal or external? Was this disc an MDisc you were copying? I've rarely used those so maybe they take longer to read back. I wouldn't throw the discs away. As I said, the discs are most likely not the culprit. One thing you could do is get some kind of software installation DVD disc and try to copy the contents from it and see if it takes a long time, too. If it does, you know the problem is not the discs you burned. Do you happen to remember if the Verify you performed took an hour? If it didn't, then ImgBurn is reading that disc at a "normal" speed. So, it would be something in Windows that would be the problem. You could try to temporarily disable your A/V and see if copying gets faster. Be sure to turn it back on when you're done, of course.

Hm, never seen a CD Control Error before. W 07:42:16 Failed to Write Sectors 2816 - 2847 - Reason: CD Control Error Is this BD burner internal or external? If it's external, you could try a different USB port or replacing the USB cable and see if that helps. I've also never heard of the model # of the drive you're using. It could be a cheaper model and doesn't like those Verbatim discs. You appear to be using the good Verbatim stuff, so it's not like you're using cheap discs. You could try getting a different manufacturer and model of BD burner and see if that improves your chances. Given that other software has returned failure errors, it's down to the drive, most likely. It probably has a compatibility problem with Verbatim BD-R. You could try and see if there's a firmware update for your burner. In Write mode, right click on the drive in the target on the left side and choose the update firmware check option near the bottom of the options. I would try first getting an external BD burner. A different one than the make and manufacturer you're currently using if your BD drive is already external. In the meantime, maybe LUK can better explain what a CD Control Error is. By its description, it does sound like a hardware issue going on.

Taking 1 hour to read a single layer DVD-R, even if completely full, is DEFINITELY not normal behavior. On my slowest Blu-Ray burner, I can copy an entire 25 GB, about 5 times the size of a DVD-R, in like half an hour. So, what's causing this? Most likely, the disc itself is not the culprit. Your drive may simply be a slow reader. There are cases I've seen where some drives, like LG, are generally slower readers than others. But, an hour? When I first started burning DVD-R in 2002, it used to take an hour to WRITE the disc, but not to read it. Could be the SATA cable or the port the drive is connected to. Swapping ports or the cable might help. Could be some kind of Windows configuration error or some sort of other error. Good luck troubleshooting something like that. Could be your A/V software slowing things down, too. Short of replacing your drive with some other manufacturer and model, there's really not much else I can think of to try. You could try and see if you had another computer where you could try to copy the DVD-R to. If it's still an hour and it's a different DVD drive being used, then it is the disc that is most likely the problem. Oh, should have asked. Is this drive connected by USB or internal?

Just because the data can be read from a burned disc, doesn't necessarily mean the data was copied 1:1 successfully to the disc. That's why if you have an image file, Verification against it is the easiest way to be sure the data was written properly to the disc. As LUK said, you could use some other software or the DOS COMP command to compare your source files against the contents written to the disc.

If LUK finds nothing wrong with the CUE sheet, try focusing on this entry: I 00:04:20 Destination Media Type: CD-R (Disc ID: 97m26s66f, CMC Magnetics Corp.) CMC Magentics makes the worst CD recordable discs out there. About half the problems we see on this board are caused by CMC and other cheap media. You can try Verbatim DataLife Plus (NOT Life Series you find in stores. They are CMC. You'll only find DataLife Plus online in stores like Amazon.com.) or "genuine" Taiyo Yuden CD-R. (Also only found online.) A lot of the problems we see on this board are solved when people stop using CMC media.

I don't know if it really makes a difference. I choose BUP over IFO because IFO directs how a DVD is a played. BUP is just a backup for the IFO's and I doubt it's ever really called upon unless the IFO can't be read. So, it seems more likely that a BUP file layer break set wouldn't affect actual playback of the DVD. Again, I don't know that for sure; it's just my preference.

Ah, looks like I misspelled Ch3vr0n again! Used a lower case c like I think I did before.

I sometimes mention on the CXD forum that people try ImgBurn for the actual burning of their output to isolate if it's the CXD burn engine that may be their playback problem. Plus, with ImgBurn, we can get logs, which will show if they're using CMC!

ch3vr0n from the VSO forums is also here, too. I always use ImgBurn to burn the VIDEO_TS output created by CXD. I like to be able to set my own layer break, if using a DVD+R DL where it's needed. Plus, I like to do things like add the containers in a DVD I create to the root directory of the disc I burn so they're "backed up" on the DVD I've created. Wherever possible, when prompted and allowed, I like to set my layer break on a .BUP file. It's essentially the same as setting the layer break on an .IFO file.

There is sort of such an option. Tools --> Settings --> Write --> Page 1 --> Check Cycle tray before Verify. Don't know if this will apply if you don't have Verify checked automatically, though. And, for Queues, you should probably set this option under Page 2 --> Queue Options --> Check Eject tray before next write. You should always have Verify checked after each write, anyway. See if these suggestions help.

DVD+R DL allows you to set your own layer break position in the ImgBurn options, but DVD-R DL, I believe, has a static layer break and cannot be changed. So, you'll get a pause in the video that may not be seamless and cannot be changed to somewhere else should you desire it. I don't know if they even still make DVD-R DL as its limitations and less compatiblity with DVD players made it less desirable for use. I tried a few to test with and quickly abandoned them in favor of DVD+R DL. Hey, are you the same reddwarf4ever I've also seen and helped on the ConvertXToDVD forums?

CMC has already changed the manufacturing process of some quality Verbatim discs to save money. They altered the DataLife Plus DVD-R and DVD+R so that they're useless in the LG WH16NS60 now. Had to switch to Taiyo Yuden TYG MID discs.

Yeah, like I said, as far as Verbatim and BD media go, they apparently use the same MID across different kinds of BD-R and BD-RE media. Those I linked to are HTL, so you're probably right. MABL is a way to indicate they're metallic oxide layers and not organic dye ones. Although why they didn't just say HTL on them is beyond me. Looked it up. MABL is short for Metal Ablative Recording Layer. And it is the inorganic, metallic oxide layer of HTL BD-R.

Are those the MID for the BD-R SL's? If so, they're the same ones I have from Verbatim that I've rarely had an issue with that wasn't the result of a failing drive's fault. However, that MID, I believe, is also used on the BD-RE DL's I have, too, also from Verbatim. So, it's slightly confusing. I've never heard of MABL branding, to my knowledge. Actually, just checked the ones I used and the package does say M-A-B-L on it. I had never noticed that before. Wonder what it means. Anyway, just ordered a stack of these today: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GSQ4DBM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Those are the ones I always use and they have that MID you mentioned on them. They're good ones I've been using for years.

Wow, LG is really grasping at straws to keep from fixing their own screw up! After writing them back yesterday after hearing NOTHING back, as I knew they would, they replied to me today. They want a photograph of the label on the drive! Well, they're not getting away with this and I'll send them whatever they want to get them to do their goddamn jobs!

I would think if you're willing to install Virtual CloneDrive, ElbyCDIO would be installed along with it. Or, alternatively, you can apparently just install the ElbyCDIO package directly from here: https://forum.redfox.bz/threads/elbycdio-6-1-3-0-driver-update.72695/

Depends. Post the log of a failed Sony CD burn.

My last contact from LG seemed to indicate they DO still make the WH16NS60. They kind of tried putting the blame on me, asking me if I actually read the label on the drive to make sure it was an NS40 and not just reading the box it came in. They said they'd let a higher up know so they could follow up on what to do. Which I know what they'll do: NOTHING! I'm not sure, but I think notifications are when you get replies to posts and an e-mail notifies you of the new content. However, why you'd be asked this each time you sign in indicates it's something else. Like push notifications, which I don't know what the contents of those would be. I don't get prompted to sign in each time I check for new updates. I guess I'm automatically logged in each time I visit the site, which I think I was able to set an option for that somewhere. Last I checked, PIODATA, on your recommendation, did not make BD burners. Couldn't find one anywhere on their site. The biggest problem is remembering to wear a mask. Not that I think a mask will protect me or others, it's just that if I don't wear a mask, I'm afraid some paranoid idiot with a gun will shoot me for getting too close like actually happened in Texas, I think it was. And the restaurants are still closed. I owe my mother 2 meals, one for her birthday and one for Mother's Day, so I'm behind there. Plus, I want to get somewhere where I can dine in on a pizza again. I'm tired of just Little Caesar's for pizza. And these one way aisles are ridiculous! I follow the rules, but I'm the ONLY one who does, so what difference does it make? And I want to be able to go into the library again to read the newspaper. Funny enough, I cut my big left toe on the first of May trimming my big toenail and it still hasn't fully healed yet. But, I heal REALLY slow from injuries.

This is your most likely culprit: I 13:21:56 Destination Media Type: CD-R (Disc ID: 97m26s66f, CMC Magnetics Corp.) CMC Magnetics makes the WORST optical discs out there. Most of the problems we see on this board are caused by CMC or other cheap discs. CMC would also explain why it worked at one point and didn't work later. CMC is like that. You can get some good discs but most are junk. Try Verbatim DataLife Plus CD's. NOT Verbatim Life Series you find in stores, which are CMC. You will only find the good stuff in online stores like Amazon.com. If you can't find DataLife Plus, try "genuine" Taiyo Yuden CD's.