chewy

it's not looking good here 1. drives out of warranty???? if not return it 2. oem/crossbrand to start with, not good 3. not seeing verbatim and the drive is fairly modern post a filter driver load order, I would probably clean house and only leave imapi and redbook test if that doesn't help then try the firmware, nothing to lose at that point, the drive is probably toast Donta is human? Next you all will tell me there's no Santa Claus.

http://forum.rpc1.org/dl_firmware.php?download_id=2110 there's a later firmware , but it probably won't help that old burner with those low quality blanks you might try the 2.4x verbatims good luck

"long ago and far away" http://forum.digital-digest.com/showthread.php?t=83701 they never got back to us to see if it worked

Usb is a system intensive interface, the cpu has to handle the I/O, it's best to optimize your computer, according to the ram in use, yours is not. Shut down as much as you can, lower the burn speed to 4X and retest. Those are usually pretty good drives tho.

sell your soul to MicroSoft

well your firmware is using a generic write strategy to burn the disks with, if it was working before it should still work, so chances are your burner is going out, of course when it worked before it may have just barely worked rather than waste too much more time on such an old burner I would buy a new one, after having to replace over 100 dvd's that I burned with old burners and second class media, I am biased against them, a lot were memorex and only a couple of years old, if that My 16x LG burner was a later model(4163B) than yours and it's almost 2 1/2 years old PTG Pietersburg, South Africa ??? ty media there might be that's branded and expensive I am sure

I downloaded your firmware from the dangerous brothers and extracted the media table, looking at the mid codes supported it's obvious that the date on the firmware at rpc1 is wrong, no 16x media is listed I would buy a new burner, chances are that old one is worn out and 8x media is getting hard to find A117RPC1_speedsettings.txt

the dye/mid code may be an important factor, but quality control is just as important or even more so look at the wide variance of pie/pif results from batch to batch of the same media, I have had verbatim and TY both that were substandard, but other batches that were near perfect TY's original tyg01/4x dvd-r's were probably some of the best blanks made, I had some ricoh dvd+r 4x, that was end of stock(2 years old when I bought it) that burned with more consistency than newer batches of ty or verbatim, I seriously doubt it was the die, but the manufacturing process Even the 4x ricoh burned better than my latest batches of verbatim, even at the same speeds(8x and 12x) A few companies claim they use TY die and equiptment(presses) to manufacture disks outside of japan(hongkong for example) these disks are pure crap, even if they were using the real dye, they can't get a good spread of it We see a wide variance from verbatim, where the dye/mid codes are the same as the original plant used in singapore, quality is all over the board. Prodisc makes some verbatims in tawain, but they have a line of their own dye/disks that can and often does exceed the mcc quality. Damn can of worms

I used to get some great TDK 8X dvd+r's, they were made in japan by Taiyo Yuden, that was 2 years ago. http://www.videohelp.com/dvdmedia?dvdmedia...h+or+List+Media

might want to post the filter driver load order, it is a dell computer? right?

yours mine usb is system intensive, free up as much as possible before a burn and verify

http://club.cdfreaks.com/f44/sony-dw-g120a...r-scans-193376/ looks like that firmware is fine

oem and crossbranded? for future reference if needed only http://club.cdfreaks.com/f44/flasfix-unabl...88/#post1934930

cough, anyone got the robitussin? my link showed newer firmware, please download/extract/boot into safe mode and update the burner and try again 16x media in a 4X burner is a bad idea, 8X blanks maybe?????

Burning single layer dvd's is a hard job, takes several correct elements, burning dual layer dvd's is that much harder, technically Just a few burners do it well, and they are mostly newer ones, it only makes sense that as a drive ages it would develope dl problems first, on the average. where's the last imgburn log? or at least put a blank in and let's see which firmware and which mid you are using

I have stuck with an older version of clonecd as it loads no filters try removing the lower filter rebooting and try another burn or try another burner in your computer or try yours in another computer

you might check your dma, free up some ram/memory and use better media

http://forum.rpc1.org/dl_firmware.php?download_id=1618 awfully old drive for a computer with so much ram imgburn log is a lot easier to find than the nero one???? the newest firmware might see and burn those 16x better??????

It will convert the mp3's into cda/waves on the fly as it burns

buy premium media, verbatim or taiyo yuden and even then it's iffy at max

lower your burn speed to 8X, is that a dell oem drive? try again? dell's usually have sonic installed

a gross oversimplification dye is related to the mid code of the blank, for genuine disks, your drive's firmware has a "strategy" to burn that dye according to the mid code which identifies it some brands of disks use several mid codes/dyes, some are better than others for example some generic brands(house brands) will have several different manufacturers, you have to use clues like where the media was made, type and size of package, even the color and shape of the foam spacer disks made in japan are usually the best, made in tawain can be good or bad, made in china or hong kong are usually the worst, including ones with good mid codes(fake or clone) http://www.videohelp.com/dvdmedia?dvdmedia...h+or+List+Media quite a variation of mid codes

http://www.videohelp.com/dvdplayers?DVDnam...ame&hits=50 reading the comments seems to indicate that the player doesn't like burned dvd's

I won't tell my computer that my old thermaltake keeps plugging away also http://www.majorgeeks.com/download4181.html under computer sensor you can get some voltage readings but they only furnish a rough guide

if I remember right, that post LuK linked to over at cdfreaks is one of the firmware writters from liteon and that firmware linked is a test firmware intended to fix problems welcome to the beta tester world go for it