mmalves

Nope, all seems good in the log.

Update your burner's firmware (remove any disc and close the tray before updating then reboot after it's finished) and try again.

Update your burner's firmware (remove any disc and close the tray before updating then reboot after it's finished) and try burning again at 6x or 8x.

If it verifies OK then Windows may not be detecting the change in the disc's contents. You haven't messed with AutoRun/AutoPlay settings, have you? If you eject then re-insert the disc (with ImgBurn closed) does Windows correctly detect the disc?

The LG GE20LU10 burner should be OK, not that great though, and I would avoid the HP burner because it doesn't have firmware updates, which shows the manufacturer isn't interested in making it a better product.

Yes, if the fingerprint is "greasy"/dirty enough it can interfere with the burn process. And by censoring the log you're limiting how far we can help you, as there's important information in it that we could use to provide you better suggestions.

Also update your burner's firmware (remove any disc and close the tray before updating then reboot after it's finished). While you're at it, also install service pack 3 for your Windows.

I'd go for a Pioneer DVR-117/217 (but not the 118/218 models) or an Optiarc AD-7240S in an external enclosure of your choice.

Yeah, those discs are crap indeed. You could try burning them at 6x or 4x to see if they burn, or even try cleaning the drive with a lens cleaning disc, but it would be better if you used Verbatim DVD+R DL blanks.

It means your burner doesn't support those blanks. Have you read this?

Your blanks use a dye/ink that's rated for up to 16x burning, and your burner says it only supports burning them at 4x, which shows it has poor or not support for those blanks. Not to mention that we know from our experience that CMC MAG dye blanks are rubbish. That being said, Verbatim and Taiyo Yuden are the best blanks you can buy, and if a burner doesn't work with them then you can be sure the burner is faulty. By the way you should install service pack 3 for your Windows //edit: too slow again

Yes, that option makes a big WAV file out of the source disc, instead of the usual BIN image, and it's the .cue file that tells where each track starts.

Your burner doesn't support the blanks you're using. Try with Verbatim or Taiyo Yuden blanks and it should work.

ImgBurn's Read mode can only create disc images of the whole disc

http://forum.imgburn.com/index.php?showtopic=8000

It was probably the same as ImgBurn's Quick Erase, where just the first 800 sectors of a disc are erased.

If you have a win7 ISO image then it'll be burned as it is, i.e. no changes are made by ImgBurn. Now, if you're creating an ISO image from the installation files then you should follow this guide.

ImgBurn is a burning tool and, as such, it doesn't change video/audio/anything. If I recall correctly even DVD Shrink can do what you want.

Burning at the slowest speed doesn't necessarily result in a better burn quality, especially on a new burner like yours that's tuned for faster burns. You might get better burns at 8x.

Then connect the burner to another computer and try the firmware update there.

You can't overburn DVD+R DL media.

Your burner doesn't support the blanks you're using. Try with Verbatim or Taiyo Yuden blanks and it should work

Update your burner's firmware (remove any disc and close the tray before updating then reboot after it's finished) and also try burning at the other available write speeds.

If the media is good then the burner must have developed a fault.

ImgBurn always finalises ("closes") the discs it burns, so you don't need to do it automatically. See the pink banner at the top of this page? Please read it.