mmalves

No, it's all up to your system, OS and its codecs.

Update your burner's firmware (remove any disc and close the tray before updating then reboot after it's finished) and try again. If it doesn't work then use a lens cleaning disc on it. As for your Matshita burner, try the lens cleaning disc too. By the way you can burn directly to disc, no need to create an ISO image first: use the "Write files/folders to disc" option or set the Output to Device

Install the latest ImgBurn, click "Write files/folders to disc", add the "C:\Documents and Settings\PJ McCloskey\My Documents\dvd\dvd" folder and click the big Build button. It'll then burn and verify the burn.

There was no verify so we don't know if it was a good burn or not.

The "Unable to recover TOC" message means your burner didn't recognize/doesn't support the blank disc you're using. Open the following file and paste its contents here for us to look at: "C:\Documents and Settings\PJ McCloskey\My Documents\dvd\imgburn_write.txt"

The locking shouldn't take more than a few seconds. Reboot the computer and you'll probably be able to burn from the VIDEO_TS folder generated by DVD Flick. Also run Windows Update or enable Automatic Updates to make sure you have all the latest patches for your Windows OS.

Post the logs showing the problem (look in ImgBurn's Help menu).

Try the Sort Files By Source List Order option in Tools -> Settings -> Build tab (page 1), but you must use Standard Input mode and add the files in the order you want them to be laid out on the disc.

Update your burner's firmware (remove any disc and close the tray before updating then reboot after it's finished) and try again. If it doesn't work then it could be that your burner doesn't support booktyping DVD+RW media, but it may be able to booktype DVD+R media.

They did away with the layerbreak concept when they made the BluRay standard, so it's all handled by the burner itself. As for the MD5 hashes, the Calculate MD5 Hashes option will calculate and show/save the MD5 hashes in the program's log, and if you want ImgBurn to save a separate .md5 file for each ISO image then you should enable the appropriate option in the Read tab.

Wii game discs are protected and ImgBurn can't read protected discs.

Wasn't a .mds file created? I think you need to mount that one so that it emulates a BD-ROM disc rather than a DVD-ROM disc like it's doing now. You can manually create a .mds/.dvd file for your ISO image with the appropriate options in ImgBurn's Tools menu if you want to test them.

Are you using a brand new blank disc each time you try to burn? It's weird that the drive errors out at exactly the same spot with the same error message on all your burn attempts.

The controller will be listed in Hardware -> PCI, then all you need to do is Google the model's name to find its driver. In some cases (e.g. Marvell IDE controller) you might need to look in the motherboard's manufacturer website for the correct driver.

Update the burner's firmware and try again at 16x.

Have you tried that disc on other PS3 or other BluRay players? Try with a Verbatim BD-RE disc, as in our experience Verbatim works best for most people.

Since your car player supports the MP3 format you can use the Build mode ("Write files/folders to disc") to burn your MP3s to a disc. Use ISO9660 + Joliet filesystems (Options tab) for increased compatibility.

The IDE controller where the burner is connected to is operating in RAID mode and that's something that can mess up communication with optical drives. Look for the latest driver for your IDE controller (use SIW to identify it) and also look in the system's BIOS if there's an option to make it work in normal mode. Alternatively, you could use an IDE to USB adapter or maybe another computer with an IDE controller not in RAID mode to test if that error is really coming from the burner.

Please post the log of that burn.

ImgBurn always finalises discs. Please post the log of that burn from the BDMV folder (you can find older logs in ImgBurn's Help menu).

If "other programs" don't perform the verify step as ImgBurn does then it isn't a fair comparison, is it? I think it's worth trying with Verbatim or Taiyo Yuden blanks, and then a cleaning disc if they don't work. You could also crossflash the burner to its real SH-S203N model, but this would void your warranty and potentially brick (technical term ) the burner

Cleaning the lens is your only option then.

Time for a new burner then

What's the type, brand and rated write speed of the blanks you've tried?

Your burner thinks there's no disc inside. Copy and paste here all the text of the Log window. Also tell us your burner's name as ImgBurn shows it in the main window.