LIGHTNING UK!

You didn't see 'Write' mode? For the most part, .img and .iso are the same thing. http://forum.imgburn.com/index.php?showtopic=61

Because I don't want to! If you're gonna open source something, you need to do it at the start of the project - or when you end it.

Is that not an original disc? It's probably protected against copying and ImgBurn can't deal with anything like that - nor do we discuss it on this forum I'm afraid.

Yeah, and it's only shown in the log file after it started the read process.... so I really don't understand what you're getting at! Without knowing exactly what's supposed to be there, there's no way to know if it's corrupt or not. Normally you'd use the 'known' MD5 for a file to check for such things - or use SFV/PAR/PAR2 files.

I know a place to get them from... Take a right at Bond street, left at Mayfair, cross over Old Kent Road, follow Park Lane until you reach Trafalgar Square and there you'll find a shop called 'Are you serious?' right next to Liverpool Street train station.

It already does if they're found.

They shouldn't do that if you're taking an image rather than making a new one - otherwise it would be pointless doing it.

No, not really. Only the most basic of checks could be performed by actually seeing if the program will load it and finds a valid file system etc! You could do that by loading it into Write mode or into Verify mode.

3rd time lucky?! Please post the log! Bring up the 'Log' window by clicking the 'View' menu at the top of the main ImgBurn window and then clicking 'Log'. (or press CTRL+ALT+L). Failing that, look in the 'Help' menu and find the option to show you the 'ImgBurn Logs'.

Read mode is all about creating ISO images - that's it's sole purpose in life. If you're NOT getting an ISO, it's probably because you're making the image on a drive using the FAT/FAT32 filesystem - whereby the image must be split into 4GB sections or the computer blows up (kidding). The MDS is then used to join (virtually) the two back together (in software that supports MDS files). For people using NTFS for the file system on their hard drive, the program will create an ISO and then an MDS if it thinks it needs to (i.e. for double layer discs where the layer break position is then stored in the MDS).

It just burns lots of zeroes to the media. We use it for all the drive / disc tests in the 'drives and media' forum. You can tell it to burn then entire disc without having the hassle of building an iso of that exact size. You can then see the read/write rates on the media and follow them up with a PIPO scan in DVDInfoPro or CDSpeed. This enables you to see how well your drive can burn them - and of course vary the write speeds to see if that makes a difference.

Sorry, what exactly is the problem? Is the burner not listed in the drop down box when you're in Write mode? Copy + paste everything out of the log window when you first start ImgBurn.

It's no different, it's just a standalone version. Discovery mode is used for testing drives / media and not something you'd use everyday (unless you're me / one of the beta team )

Might I suggest 'Mounting' the ISO's as virtual drives if you don't want to burn them and extracting that way? You just need DAEMON Tools. That way, the OS is still doing all the file system parsing.

Unless it's something I've fixed since 2.3.2.0, it's working fine for me.

Never gonna happen, sorry.

You must have a very 'special' 360 then if it likes everything EXCEPT the one decent type/brand of double layer media! Looks as though you've got yourself a bit of a catch 22 situation.

Ok, firstly the Guides section of this forum covers what the 'AUTO' speed is. It's not Auto in the sense that you think it is, YOU need to configure it first or all your discs / drives will burn at full speed - and that's NOT a good thing. You got a power calibration error at the start of that burn - that's not good either! Without seeing the complete log I can only assume you're using cheapo media. Get yourself some Verbatim (MCC dye) or Taiyo Yuden discs and then try burning with those instead.

It lists every cell that has any chance of being aligned so L0 >= L1 (size wise) and where the Start LBA of that Cell is a multiple of 16 (ECC Sector Boundary). The rating is only for the cell as it currently stands, based on a certain set of rules. i.e. going by that exact screenshot, if one of the entries had SPLIP = No, it would get a 'Good' flag as it's more likely to already a decent place of the LB to go. Unless you tell ImgBurn otherwise, the Cell you select WILL have it's 'SPLIP' value changed to 'No' - as typically that's how layer breaks are done. You can't just randomly insert a layerbreak wherever you like, as mentioned above, at the very least the split has to be where L0 >= L1. As you can see from your screenshot, all the cells from 5 through 8 have been listed. Try and get to any before that and L1 would become bigger than L0. Try and get any after that and L0 is too big to go on the disc. The only way to get more options is to physically insert more cells or to shrink the source files a bit more so there's extra 'spare room' to move around it. Both of those require 3rd party tools.

If you just want to copy an unprotected disc, simply use Read mode to create an ISO of it on your hdd and then use Write mode to burn that ISO to a new disc.

Maybe you don't have a writer then?

The 'supported write speeds' text means nothing to the program really, it's purely cosmetic. Even if the 2.4x speed isn't mentioned there, you could still set it to 2.4x and IF the drive really did support it, it would burn at it. I do not limit (in any way, shape or form) the speed you can select and hence what the program will instruct the drive to burn at. By that I mean you can tell it to burn at 48x for all I care, the program will send the appropriate speed to the drive and the drive can either use it or ignore it (which of course it would if you chose 48x!) and select the next best (closest) speed automatically.

Smart people swear by it, stupid people swear at it. It's pretty clear which direction you're heading. Don't ever bitch about something because YOU don't understand it. It only makes you look daft and people WILL laugh at you. The software you use has almost nothing to do with the burn being successful or not - it all comes down to your choice of drive/firmware/media. All the software does is send the data to the drive.

Yup same place. Mine were $41 for 2 packs, so yeah about £5 a disc! I was lucky in that I only had to wait 5 days from ordering until they'd shipped them

donta, I got a couple of packs from them (2 in a pack). Delivery was pretty quick actually