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LIGHTNING UK!

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Everything posted by LIGHTNING UK!

  1. Your drive just isn't burning nicely to those discs (or the basic read feature is messed up) Check for firmware updates and try some different discs - with a different MID - we recommend Verbatim (MCC dye) and Taiyo Yuden. Seeing as how you've got a BenQ, why not do a PIPO scan in DVDInfoPro (or Disc Quality scan in CD-DVD Speed) and see what the burn quality is like on those discs you're using?
  2. That all depends on how you like to work. I personally have no need for multisession and actually don't like it much. If I want to burn something, I'll burn enough to fill a disc or burn to a rewritable. If I need to add more, I'll just burn it all again - but then it's my own fault for not remembering that extra bit in the first place. If I can't wait the extra few mins to burn the disc again (CDs/DVDs are for archival purposes so there should never be a rush), I'd use a memory stick - in fact, I almost always use a memory stick over cd/dvd. So in short, I don't know when (if ever) it'll be implemented. Sorry.
  3. No it's not and hasn't been since v2.0.0.0 added support for reading it from the .DVD file. Just burn a disc and verify it (using 2.2 of course) and then post a 'Disc Quality / PIPO' scan. Of course you should also post the full log. I've done a few more since your initial post and they've all been fine. Seriously, whatever the issue is, it's not the software. I bet if you compared the burn at a 'commands sent to the drive' level, both versions would be identical. As I said before, all the program does is send data to the drive, it's hardly difficult and there's very little room for error. If your drive is producing duff burns, thats nothing to do with the program - and I'm not just saying that because ImgBurn is my program, I'm saying because it's the truth.
  4. It uses v1.02 - the standard for DVD Video discs.
  5. Cool, thanks for letting us know
  6. 2.2.0.0 actually issues a warning for that - unless you're doing something really odd.
  7. It's just the stuff in the MMC specs. www.t10.org
  8. These things deteriorate over time... nothing lasts forever! Resetting DMA (as per the FAQ) can help out in certain situations. Updating the firmware, resetting DMA and using decent media are the 3 easy things to do when stuff starts going wrong. If you do those and it still doesn't work, you need to start looking at general hardware problems.
  9. 99.99% of the time, an I/O Error is a drive / media / firmware issue. The drive reports the errors, ImgBurn simply displays them.
  10. Sounds like you've got an error on your hdd. Run chkdsk on it from a command prompt window EDIT: Snap!
  11. Sorry, what does it say when you try to write to them? Even if it does think there's data on them, it should just offer to overwrite it. If it's not saying that, what is it saying? Any chance of a screenshot (or a log if it shows anything) ?
  12. If you don't use B's Recorder gold, ditch (delete) the cdrbsdrv one. Likewise with dvd43llh. PxHelp20 is fine.
  13. Your drive seems to have reset itself - that's not a good thing! Previously, your errors were coming from the 'Verify' stage. That is to say, the drive burnt the disc but them couldn't read it back - meaning it had produced a bad burn. You tend to get that on discs the drive doesn't like or just on discs that are useless anyway. Try and find some Verbatim (MCC dye) or Taiyo Yuden discs. They're much better quality than the ones you're currently using (RICOHJPN-R03-04).
  14. Nothing on your PC should make the drive error out... after all, it's a bit of hardware. When it's burning to a disc, there's just it and the disc - nothing should be able to interfere with that. In case you've got some dodgy filter drivers installed, click 'Tools' -> 'Filter Driver Load Order'. Then hit the 'Clipboard' button and 'Paste' into a reply message so we can see what's installed on your pc. Are you sure these are the exact same discs your drive has worked with in the past? That is to say you've not just moved onto a new spindle or whatever and you've not just updated the drives firmware? There is clearly something it doesn't like about them, you just need to figure out what it is.
  15. Do you have a log file? You might have DMA problems, in which case, just follow the post in the FAQ.
  16. There isn't one.
  17. Don't 'tweak' settings, reset them back to default! We're not having problems and ours are on the defaults.
  18. Those fields are for whatever made the file system - as 'Read' mode is not creating anything, merely reading it, it's not supposed to update the fields.
  19. I actually prefer that it still tries to unlock it even if it thinks it failed in the first place. I have however made it fail silently when it knows the locking failed.
  20. Hmm it's appending something random that shouldn't be there! I'm looking at it right now! EDIT: Fixed. Thank you :-)
  21. Do you have 'Preserve Full Paths' selected? If so, uncheck it.
  22. 'AUTO' means the new 'Auto Write Speed' config takes over. If you don't configure anything, the discs will just burn at max. I think perhaps I need to do a guide or something for this new feature as I guess people don't understand what it is. Basically, you enter the MID of the media you use and select the write speed. Then whenever you use those discs, it'll automatically write at your pre-defined write speed. Once that's done, you never need to touch anything again. You can force any media to burn at any speed you like on any drive you like.
  23. Get some taiyo yunden cds, they're not very expensive really. You can get some datasafe taiyo yuden ones for ?12.98 for 100 discs. http://svp.co.uk/products-solo.php?pid=1457 Even if you still have problems, at least you'll have good discs for the next drive you buy. Personally I'd never buy a 2nd hand burner.... there's just no point! You can buy them brand new for less than ?20
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